MOUNTAIN IN PERU

CORDILLERA BLANCA

Day 1:

The first day Move to nevado Pisco morrena camp (4,900m).
The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.

The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa.

Day 2:

3 am. start the ascento to the summit.

We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran, our next objective.

Time: 8 hours. Return to base camp.

Day 3 :

Descent to cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.

The fourth day it will be to rest in Huaraz.
Ascent to huascarán.

Day 5:

Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho, the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours.
camp 1

Day 6:

As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
we arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. We will use porters to carry much of the group gear to this camp.

Day 7:

This day we move up to High Camp (camp 2), located in "La Garganta" (The Throat - 6,00 m.), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As we climb through the increasingly broken glacier, we encounter short section of technical climbing including ice up to about 60 degrees "la canaleta". Again, we will have the aid of porters to carry some of our group gear.

In this passage is common the presence of great crevasses in the glacier.
our team in the south huascaran summit
september 2003

Day 8:

The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.

Time: 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2.

Day 9:

Descent to base camp.

Day 10:

From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.

Day 1:

Huaraz (3,090m) - Cashapampa (2,980m) - Llamacorral (3,800m) At 07:00 am we leave Huaraz with a small bus ("Combi") towards Cashapampa, the starting point of our trek. A street in good condition leads us through the Callejón de Huaylas. In Caraz (2290m) we stop to see the the market and add some typical food to our provisions. The following dirtroad to Cashapampa (2 hours from Caraz) is very steep.

artesonraju from santa cruz Arriving in Cashapampa we meet our porters and donkeys, who will accompany us during the next days. Very important for this day is a good mosquito protection. By 12:30 we begin our trek through the beautiful Santa Cruz valley.
The path starts with a soft ascent at the edge of the Santa Cruz river. The vegetation becomes generous and the diversity of the plant is astonishing. Very soon we can see the some glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca. At about 3 pm we arrive at our first camp: a large meadow at the river with a good view at the impressing soutface of the TAULLIRAJU (5,830m).

Day 2:

Llamacorral (3,800m) - Taullipampa (4,100m)After our first night in the high mountains we continue our trek at 9 am towards Taullipampa. We slowly gain altitude and in 3850m come to our first mountain lake with name Ichicocha (Cocha means mountain lake in Quechua). Half an hour later we arrive at our second lake (Jatuncocha, 3,900m), which impresses us with its intensively turquois water. Later we see at the left hand site the famous Alpamayo (5,947m), which for many people is the most beautiful mountain in the world. The Alpamayo basecamp could be reached in one hour from here. We continue our trip and arrive at the next camping site at 2 pm. From here we see the best of the Cordillera Blanca: in the northwest the Alpamayo and the Quitaraju, in the Southwest the Artesonraju (6,025m) and in the north the Taulliraju (5,830m) and the Rinrijirca (5,810m)

Day 3:

Taullipampa (4,100m) - Punta Union pass (4,750m) - Huaripampa (3,800m) Today we face the hardest stage of the Santa Cruz trek: the pass Punta Unión with 4,750m. However, the view at the Taulliraju, which we are approching, rewards us for all our efforts. After a 3 hour ascent we made it and deserve a break with an overwelming panorama. The descent is easy and perhaps enables us to see some Condors. Camp in Cachinapampa (3,800 m)
Huandoy summits

Day 4:

Huaripampa (3,800m) - Paccha (4,000m) Today`s destination is called Paccha. The trial leads us through a beautiful tract on a soft grass floor - a great boon for our punished feeds. We pass the second andenean village called Vaquería (3,900m) - here we also can go for a short "shopping" tour. After some serpentines we come to an asphalt street and search for a suitable camping site on the right hand side of it close to the river.
Ascento to Pachha (4,000 m) Camp

Day 5:

Paccha (4,000m) - Portachuelo Pass (4,767m) - Cebollapampa (3,950m) - Huaraz Today we cross the second pass Portachuelo (4,767m) with a special highlight: a great part of the descent to cebollapampa camp.

Day 6:

Rest in cebollpampa
Trek to 69 lake, exceptional viewpoint to Chacraraju mountain (6,111 m)

Day 7:

Move to nevado Pisco morrena camp (4,900m).
The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa.
pisco summit

Day 8:

Summit day, Pisco Oeste (5,752m).
start : 3 a.m.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Time: 8 hours.
Return to base camp.

Day 9:

Base camp – cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.

urus summit

Leaving Huaraz early we drive a short way north, downstream in the Callejon de Huaylas, the large valley that borders the Cordillera Blanca on its west side. Soon we turn east and climb up to the town of Pashpa From here, we load our equipment on burros and begin the easy trek into Base Camp. The trek normally takes only about 4 hours. This is a lovely walk, passing through dense forests of Quenual trees before emerging into the upper broad valley where we will establish our base camp at about 4,600 m.
This will be our home for the next 7 days, and other than the high camp in Tocllaraju we may elect to place during our ascents around the valley we will get to enjoy the relative comfort of of a well equipped cooking tent.
Is possible to visit the refuge "Ishinca" in the environs of base camp.

Day 1:

Traslate Huaraz Pashpa and trekking to Ishinca base camp (4,300 m)

Day 2:

Ascent to east Urus (5,430 m)
ishinca

This is a great peak, involving somewhat steeper climbing, especially on the summit structure.

Day 3:

Ascent to Ishinca (5,530 m.)
The Ishinca it is still a big climb, however, involving glacier travel and a significant elevation gain above our base camp. We may chose to place a high camp, both to break up an otherwise long day but also to further acclimate to the high elevations.

Day 4:

Rest in quebrada Ishinca.
Boulders practices near of base camp.

Day 5:

Tocllaraju camp 1, 5,200m.

Día 6:

Camp 1 - Tocllaraju summit (6,034 m) - base camp
tocllaraju ice wall.
On Tocllaraju we will put all of our skills to the test.
At the end of the route an ice wall exists ( 70 - 90 ° - 30 m.)

Day 7:

Base camp - Pashpa ans transfer to Huaraz .

Tour Costs Included:

1) Mountain Guides (Bilingual Franch/Spanish and English)
2) Cook and an assistant
3) Pack animals
4) Collective Technical Equipment
5) High Altitude Porters

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