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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Montagnes des Andes
 
LES 6.000m DES ANDES
THE 6.000m ANDEAN PEAKS
LOS 6.000m DE LOS ANDES
 

Tous les 6.000 des Andes

Les 6.000 et plus des Andes sont réunis dans les Andes tropicales, c'est-à-dire, les hauts plateaux don le nom générique en ai l’altiplano. De l’Equateur au nord du Chili et de l’Argentine, passant par le Pérou et la Bolivie, une extension formidable de sommets formant une longue barrière de glace et roches. Certains sont de type volcaniques, les autres ont atteint leur pleine maturité avec le plissement des plaques tectoniques. Mais toutes ces montagnes ont pour elles la beauté adjointe a la sévérité, toutes sont grandiose dans un contexte géographique des plus extraordinaire.

Pourtant, nous ne connaissons que quelques unes dont le nom apparaît en catalogue touristiques ou revues de voyages ou simplement au cours de reportages transmis sur les chaînes de Tv. Il est évident que ce sont toujours les même nom de montagnes, celles qui par le hasard du temps et modes font sans cesse la une.

Et bien non ! Ces 6000m sont nombreux et peut être ne vous dirons t-ils rien?. Alors a titre d’hommage pour ces grandes inconnues, si hautes et solitaires en voici la liste :

 
 

Aconcagua: 6.960m/22.828ft (Argentina) – Ojos del Salado: 6.885m/ 22.528ft (Chile/ Argentina) – Pissis: 6.779m/22.235ft (Argentina) – Mercedario: 6.770m/22.205ft (Argentina) – Huascaran Sur: 6.768m/25.479ft (Perú) – Llullaiyacu:6.723m/22.051ft (Argentina/Chile) – Inonimado: 6660m (Argentina) – Huascaran Norte: 6.655m (perú) – Yerupaja: 6.634m/21.759ft (Perú) – Tres Cruces. Central: 6.620m/21.713ft (Chile) – Corupuna: 6.614m/21.693ft (Perú) – Incahuasi: 6.601m/21.651ft (Chile/ Argentina) – Tupungato: 6.550m/21.484ft (Chile/ Argentina) – Sajama: 6.542m/21.457ft (Bolivia) – Yerupara Sur: 6.515m/21.369ft (Perú) – Nacimiento: 6.493m/21.297ft (Argentina) – El Muerto: 6.476m/21.241ft (Chile) – Illimani Sur: 6.462m/21.195ft (Bolivia) – Sarmiento: 6.440m/21.123ft (Argentina) – Ancohuma: 6.427m/21.080ft (Bolivia) – Lagunas Bravas: 6.412m/21.031ft (Chile) – Bonete: 6.412m/21.031ft (Argentina) – Cerro La Ramada: 6.410m/21.024ft (Argentina–Chopicalqui:6.400m/20.992ft (Perú)–Laudo: 6.400m/20.992ft (Argentina) – Huantsan Sur: 6.395m/20.975ft (Perú) – Huandoy Norte:
6.395m/20.975ft(Perú)–Ausangate:6.384m/20.939ft(Perú)–Toro:6.380m (Chile/Argentina)

Illimani Norte: 6.380m (Bolivia) – Antofaya: 6.370m (Argentina) – Illampú: 6.362m (Bolivia) – Ampato: 6.360m (Perú) – Huandoy Oeste: 6.356m (Perú) – Tres Cruces Sur: 6.356m (Chile/ Argentina) – Siulá: 6.352m/ 20.834ft (Perú) - Acay: 6.340m (Argentina) – La Ramada: 6.330m (Argentina) Paranicota Payachata Sur: 6.222m (Bolivia) – Solimana: 6.323m (Perú) – Totales: 6.323 (Chile/ Argentina) – Veladero: 6.318m (Chile/ Argentina) – Cachi: 6.310m (Argentina) – Condor: 6.300m (Argentina) – Illimani Central: 6.280m (Bolivia) - Palcajaru Este: 6.274m (Perú) – Chimborazo: 6.272m (Ecuador) – Salcantay: 6.271m (Perú) – Arroz: 6.270m (Perú) – Siulá central: 6.265m (Peru) – Santa Cruz: 6.259m (Perú) – Olivares: 6.252m (Chile/ Argentina) – Pular: 6.225m (Chile) – Pomerape. Payachata Norte: 6.222m (Bolivia/ Chile) – Chinchey: 6.222m (Perú) - Patos: 6.218m (Argentina) – Haukaña: 6.206m (Bolivia) – Copa Sur: 6.203m (Perú) - Ausangate Sur: 6.200m (Perú) - Huandoy Este: 6.200m (Perú) – Solo: 6.189m (Chile/ Argentina) – Copa Norte: 6.173m (Perú) - Pirámide Kolla Kollu/ Illimani: 6.175m (Bolivia) – San pedro: 6.165m (Chile) – Ranrapalca: 6.162m (Perú) – Huandoy Sur: 6.160m (Perú) – Quevar: 6.160m (Argentina) – Pucaranra: 6.147m (Perú) – Sarapo: 6.143m (Perú) – Jatunhuma: 6.142m (Perú) – Ermitaño: 6.140m (Chile) – Honduras: 6.140m (Argentina) – Alma Negra: 6.134m (Argentina) –– Reclus: 6.130m (Argentina) – Jirishanca Sur: 6.126m (Perú) – Hualcán Norte: 6.125m (Perú) – Yerupaja Chico: 6.121m (Perú) – Chacararaju Norte: 6.120m (Perú) – Famalina: 6.120m (Argentina) – La Mesa: 6.120m (Argentina) – Chearoco: 6.118m (Bolivia) – Ancanquilcha: 6.117m (Chile) – Huantsan Norte: 6.113m/ (Perú) – Colquecruz: 6.111m (Perú) – Juncal: 6.110m (Chile/ Argentina) – Cumbre Negra: 6.110m (Chile) – Marmolejo: 6.100m (Chile/ Argentina) – Quitoraju: 6.100m (Perú) – Purcahica Sur: 6.100m (perú) – Huayna Potosí: 6.094m (Bolivia) – Baya: 6.094m (Bolivia/ Chile) – Chearoco II: 6.090m (Bolivia) - Huallatiri: 6.087m (Bolivia/ Chile) – Arácar: 6.082m (Argentina) – Chachani: 6.082m/19.948ft (Perú) – Siulá Sur: 6.080m (Perú) – Chachacomani: 6.074m/19.922ft (Bolivia) –– Copiapo: 6.072m Chile) – Pumasilli: 6.070m/19.909ft (Perú) – Jatunriti: 6.067m (Perú) – Sierra Grande Norte: 6.066m (Argentina) – Salín: 6.060m (Chile) – Chañi: 6.060m (Argentina) – Chachacomani Sur: 6.058m (Bolivia) - Huayna Illampu: 6.056m (Bolivia) – Lloca de Ancohuma: 6.055m/19.860ft (Bolivia) – Yacuma IV: 6.050m19.844ft (Bolivia) – Yacuma III: 6.050m (Bolivia) - Pico Polaco: 6.050m19.844ft (Agentina) - Pico Del Norte: 6.050m19.844ft (Bolivia) – Plomo: 6.050m/19.844ft (Argentina) – Palcaraju: 6.050m19.844ft (Perú) – Pili: 6.050m19.844ft (Vhile) – Acotango: 6.050m19.844ft (Bolivia/Chile) – Pucahirca Norte: 6.050m/19.844ft) – Cerros Colorados: 6.049m/19.844ft (Bolivia/ Chile) – Ancoramachi: 6.045m/19.827ft (Chile) - Palpana: 6.045m19.824ft (Chile) – Chaupi Orco Norte: 6.044m/19.824ft (Bolivia/ Perú) – Rio Negro: 6.040m (Chile) – Rasac: 6.040m (Perú) – Contrahierbas: 6.036m/19.792ft (Perú) – Tres Cruces Norte: 6.036m/19.792ft (Chile) – Cayangata I: 6.035/19.948 (Perú) – Sierra Grande Sur: 6.034m/19.791ft (Argentina) – Tocllaraju: 6.032m/19.784ft (Perú) – Pico del Norte: 6.030m (Perú) – Socompa: 6.030m/ 19.778ft (Chile/ Argentina) – Artesonraju: 6.025m (Perú/ Pérou) – Caraz Parón: 6.025m (Perú) – Caraz Santa Cruz: 6.020m/19.45ft (Perú/ Pérou) – Peñas Blanca: 6.020m (Chile) – Incahuasi Chico: 6.010m/ 19.712ft (Argentina) – Pucahirca Central: 6.010m/19.712ft (Perú) – Ochaquis: 6.010m (Argentina) – Yayaman: 6.007m/ 19.7002ft (Perú) – San Francisco: 6.005m (Chile/ Argentina) – Chaupi Orco Norte: 6.000m/19.680ft (Bolivia/ Chile) – Pisco: 6.000m/19.680ft (Perú) – Chacaraju Este: 6.000m/19.680ft (Perú/ Pérou)

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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Occidentale
  Bibliografía Andina/Bolivia
Andean/Bolivia Bibliography
Bibliographie Andine/Bolivie

Sélection de références

CAI – TCI “Alpinismo Italiano nel mundo, Milano” 1935, 1953, 1972, 1975 - Stan Shepard to Pieter Crow 1986 - Sigfrid Neumann, Quer Durch, Excerpts from his 1930 attempt on Sajama – “Sajama yields Without fight to Coloradans” Danver post, June 1986 – Alain Mesili “Notas bibliograficas, CAB - Ultima Hora 1976” - “Thomas Polemus misteriosa desaparicion en Sajama” la Razon Agosto 1946 - “Expeditcion al Sajama 1947” Notas Bolivianas - “Sajama– Bolivia’s Highest Peak” Summit, May, 1972 –Wilfrid Kuehm. “Neue Bergfahrten in Ekuador und Bolivien” Zeitschrift des Deutschen und Oestereichischen Alpenvereins, 1940- T. Ifor Rees “ Sajama” 1960 – Joseph Prem “Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939” American Alpine Journal 1945 – Hans Ertl “our Climbs in Bolivia” mountain World 1953 – “Bolivian Andes: Third Ascent of Mt. Sajama” Alpine Journal, 1947 – “Route Diagram on Sajama” from Die Alpen 1978 - Alain Mesili: “Notas sobre el Sajama con Hans Ertl y F. Ahlfeld” Presencia, 1973. Alfred Horeschowsky “l’expedition aux Andes du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien” Alpinismus, 1929. Arnold Heim,“Hochgebirgssport in Bolivia” Die Alpen, 1948 pp 397-399. Albert Bauer “Meine Besteigung des Payachatas (Parinacota) 6,330m Ueber Meer” May 1939. Bibliographical notes on Joseph Prem, compiled by Pieter Crow 1983. Juan Pablo Ando: Plan de manejo túristico del parque Nacional Sajama. 1996. Tony Morrison Pathways to the Gods: The Misterry of the Andeas Lines, Chicago 1988.

Mountaineering Journals (Sajama, Pomerata and Parinacota)

AAAJ, 1963, p 428 - AAJ, 1964-1965, p 460-61 – AAJ, 1940-1942 p 31-34 : “The ascen of Mt. Parinacota” by J. Prem (6330m; W. Cord) – AAJ, 1987, p 203 – AAJ, 1975-76 p 181 note: Rafael Martinez, Federación de Andinismo de chile - AAJ, 1970-71 p (?) -

 
 
 
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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Apolobamba
 


Sélection de références

Bolivian Army 1932, climbing Bolivian Side – Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen-vereins, 1957 (1962), 95-107. EAC Handbook 43 – AAJ 11(1958),102 – Climbing peaks on the Perú-Bolivia border: AAJ 13 (1962), 252 – AAJ 1959, 321-322 -– “En la Cordillera Apolobamba” revista Peruana de Andinismo, 1958, 1966, 1968 – Sangaku 57 (1962), 21-65 Japanese Expedition - Letter regarding “Cordillera Apolobamba” Die Alpen, 1974- “Cordillera Apolobamba” note on Alpine Journal, 1959, pp 125-126 – Alain Mesili: Apolobamba Norte, Articulos CAB 1974 - Dr Richard Berger, Kelheim “JDAV- Expedition Bolivien 1995” Die Alpen 1960/1963/1970- American Alpine Journal, 1955/ 1960/1968/1970/1980/1986 – First base camp in Cupi Orco Exploration region, Japanese expedition 1961 - Climbing Cololo and numerous peaks in the Pupuya Group Japanese Expedition 1965 - Desnivel, 1999/2002. Bolivian Expedition: Southampton University Mountaineering Club 1992. - British Mountaineering Council 2002.
Apolobamba Groups, with additional material from Phil Amos, Erik Monasterio, Steve Richardson, Marcello Sanguineti, Yossi brain in the “High Mountain Info ” 1997. This northerly group of mountains, which lies on the Peru/Bolivian border, received an unprecedented number of British Expedition during 1997/ 1999/ 2002 (High Mountain Info. U.K).
J. Curran, “Cordillera Apolobamba the first ascent of Palomani Tranca (1986). JDAV-Expedition Bolivien (Chaupi Orcko 1995) - Gross, K. “Oberfrankische Anden - Expedition 1968” Jahrbuch, DAV. 94/1969 pp183-192. G. Pratt “Nudo de Apolobamba” AAJ, 12, 1960 pp 37-42 – M. Roldán “Triunfo de la Expedición Manresana del CEC. Bages a los Andes Bolivianos, Catalunya, Barcelona 1969 – W. Melbourne “The Imperial College Expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959 – “Apolobamba range” in rivista Mensile, 1959 pp 245-246

Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes

There are no maps on the Apolobamba in Bolivia. There is a sketch map, by W.H. Melbourne, 1959. Also there is the map by the British Royal Geographic Society of 1911, Royal Geographical Society, border survey 1918 – Percy Harrison Fawcett map 1919 - DAV maps 1957.- AAJ 1960 - Sangaku 1962 – CAI, Italy, 1982, 367 – Southampton University, 1992 – Loughborough Students Andes Expedition 1989 – Yorkshire Ramblers Club Expedition Report 1988 - Paul Hudson 1993. La Rinconada 1:100.000 (Lima Perú)
Akamani, sheet 5748- I. Scale 1: 50.000. However, this map has many errors. IGM: Pelechuco Series H632 Sheet: 3041, 1997
Bolivian Army 1932, climbing Bolivian Side – Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen-vereins, 1957 (1962), 95-107. EAC Handbook 43 – AAJ 11(1958), 102 – Climbing peaks on the perú-Bolivia border: AAJ 13 (1962), 252 – AAJ 1959, 321-322 – “En la Cordillera Apolobamba” revista Peruana de Andinismo, 1958, 1966, 1968 – Sangaku 57 (1962), 21-65 Japanese Expedition - Letter regarding “Cordillera Apolobamba” Die Alpen, 1974- “Cordillera Apolobamba” note on Alpine Journal, 1959, pp 125-126 – Alain Mesili: Apolobamba Norte, Articulos CAB 1974 - Dr Richard Berger, Kelheim “JDAV- Expedition Bolivien 1995” Die Alpen 1960/1963/1970- American Alpine Journal, 1955/ 1960/1968/1970/1980/1986 – First base camp in Cupi Orco Exploration region, Japanese expedition 1961 - Climbing Cololo and numerous peaks in the Pupuya Group Japanese Expedition 1965 - Desnivel, 1999/2002. Bolivian Expedition: Southampton University Mountaineering Club 1992. - British Mountaineering Council 2002.Apolobamba groups, with additional material from Phil Amos, Erik Monasterio, Steve Richardson, Marcello Sanguineti, Yossi brain in the “High Mountain Info ” 1997. This northerly group of mountains, which lies on the Peru/Bolivian border, received an unprecedented number of British Expedition during 1997/ 1999/ 2002 (High Mountain Info. U.K). J. Curran, “Cordillera Apolobamba the first ascent of Palomani Tranca (1986). JDAV-Expedition Bolivien (Chaupi Orcko 1995) - Gross, K. “Oberfrankische Anden - Expedition 1968” Jahrbuch, DAV. 94/1969 pp183-192. G. Pratt “Nudo de Apolobamba” AAJ, 12, 1960 pp 37-42 – M. Roldán “Triunfo de la Expedición Manresana del CEC. Bages a los Andes Bolivianos, Catalunya, Barcelona 1969 – W. Melbourne “The Imperial College Expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959 – “Apolobamba range” in rivista Mensile, 1959 pp 245-246 - Campese, O. ‘Due spedizioni nell’ Apolobamba Boliviane’. RM, (1982): 365-72.
-Gulz, F. ‘Neue Bergfahrten in den Anden’. Oesterreichische Alpenzeitung, (Mar.1975): 21-22. Summary of peaks climbed in the Apolobamba.
-Hasse, D. ‘Zur Anden-Information (2/70)’. Alpinismus, (May, 1970): 9. Berlin expedition to Apolobamba. -Smith, M. ‘Cololo: an ascent in the Apolobamba’, South American Explorer no.22 (Aug.1989): 12-17.
-Karl, W. ‘Anden-Kundfahrt 1957 des Sektion Berchtesgaden des Deutsche Alpen-vereins’.
Jahr,DAV, 83 (1958): 94-107. - Bratt, G. ‘Nudo de Apolobamba’. AAJ, 12 (1960): 37-42.
Gross, K. ‘Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968’. Jahrbuch, D.A.V., 94 (1969): 183-92.
-Melbourne, W. ‘The Imperial College expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959’. AJ, 65 (1960): 175-81. -[Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968] Oberfrankische Verlauf und Selected References/
- Durville, J. ‘Ascension de l’Ananea (Cordillera Apolobamba,Perou)’. LA, 50 (1974): 79-80.
- Duttle-Albrecht, H. ‘Ananea’. LA, 48 (1972): 157-9.
Ergebnisse -Bamberg: Eigenverlag, 1968. Expedition report. -Rold N, M. ‘Triunfo de la Expedicion Manresana del C.E.C. Bages a los Andes Bolivianos’. Centro Excursionista de Catalunya, Barcelona, Montaña, n.120-124 (Mar-Dec.1969): 397 401. -Curran, J. ‘Cordillera Apolobamba-the first ascent of Palomani Tranca’. AJ, 91 (1986): 135-8. -Gross, K. ‘Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968’. Jahr, DAV, 94 (1969): 183-92. -Karl, W. ‘Anden-Kundfahrt 1957 des Sektion Berchtesgaden des Deutsche Alpen-vereins’. Jahr,
-DAV, 83 (1958): 94-107. [Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968] Oberfrankische ... Verlauf und Ergebnisse. Bamberg: Eigenverlag, 1968. Expedition report. -Weinzierl, W. ‘Munich Andean expedition’. AAJ, 17 (1970): 32-37. Includes Apolobamba. AAC-CRS AAC American Alpine Club Rockies Section – AMC American Mountaineering Center –

Mountaineering Journal Sources

(Principal sources: Santhampton University Mountaineering Club 1992 – Loughborough students Andes Expedition report 1989)
1932 Bolivian Army, Bolivian side Climbing Palomani Grande – 1957 German Bolivian side, base camp West paso Osipal, Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen- Vereins´57 (1962), 95-107 (Eac Handbook´43 –AAJ 11 1959 321-322 – 1958 Italian Peruvian side: Climbing peaks on the Peru-Bolivia border AAJ (1959 321-322) AAJ 13 (1962 252 – 1959 British Bolivian side. Base camp in Tuichi valley between Matchu Sunchi Coochi and Soral ridge (AAJ 12 1960-61) 37-42 – 1961 Japanese Bolivian side First basecamp in Chaupi Orco near Puyo Puyo and camps SW of Hualancalloc at lago Canisaya. Sangaku 57 (1962) 21-65 and AAJ 13 (1962) 253-4 – 1965 Japanese Expedition Climbed cololo and numerous peaks in the Pupuya group. Sangaku 62 (19667), 14-18 (AAJ 15 (1967), 14-18 – 1968 German Expedition Bolivian side basecamp in Tuichi valley climbed in Chaupi Orco, Matchu Suchi Coochi and Katantica groups. (AAJ 16 (1969) 443. AJ 74 (1969) 241 – 1969 German Expedition Bilivian side climbed in Chaupi Orco and Soral groups and briefly from paso Pelechuco. AAJ 17 (1970), 32-7, 154-79 / AJ (1970), 220 – 1970 American Expedition Bolivia side basecamp in Tuichi valley, near Spanish campsite. AAJ (1971), 424 – 1972 Canadian Expedition Bolivian side Soral group AAJ 18 (1972) 176 - 1972 Swiss Expedition Peruvian side – 1973 French Expedition Peruvian side climbed SW face Ananea – 1974 German Expedition Bolivian side based in paso Pelechuco AAJ (1975), 177-80 – 1974 Swiss Expedition Peruvian side – 1978 french Expedition Bolivian side attempted Acamani and other peaks in the Pupuya group AAJ 22 (1979), 246-7 – 1981 Italian Expedition Bolivian side climbed in Soral group and near Pelechuco-Haracha, basecamps East of Chaupiu Orco, in Soral group and in paso Pelechuco. Revista del CAI, 101, 1982 / AAJ 26 (1984), 209 – 1983 French Expedition Peruvian side Climbed Ananea and border peaks, AAJ 1984, 209 – 1985 British Expedition Peruvian side basecamp West of Palomani Tranca – 1986 American Expedition Bolivian side basecamp West of Cololo, SE of lago Khello AAJ 29 (1987), 198-201 – 1988 British Expedition, Bolivian side Basecamp at Lago Pauoche W of Cololo - 1989 British Expedition, Bolivian side basecamp in Padso Osipal South of Cololo – 1989 British Expedition, Bolivian side Basecamp at Lago Nubi West of Cololo and Lago Suches South West of Palomani Grande.

 
 
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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Quimza Cruz
 


Sélection de références

Hoek. H. “Bergfahrten in Bolivia” Zeit. DOEAV, 1905, 1906, 1907 – “Exploration of Bolivia” GJ 25, PP 498-513 – Karl Seelig “Berge der Welt, 1948” – “ A Yob’s- Eyes View of the Quimza Cruz” American Alpine Journal 1969 – “ Prof. Dr Theodore Herzog” mitteilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreischichen Alpenvereins, Sep 1950 – Notes onTheodore Herzog’s “ Bergfahrten in Suedamerika” 1925 - Excerpts from Theodore Herzog “ Vom Urwald zu den Gletschern der Kordillere” 1923 and “Der Kampf um die Weltberge” 1934 – Letter from Ken Wilson to Evelio Echevarria, May 1984 - Wilfrid Kuhm “Bolivien, Berge der Welt, 1948” - Joseph Prem “Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939” American Alpine Journal, 1945 – letter from Evelio Echevarria to Pieter Crow 1984 – H. Hoek “Besteigung des Cerro Tacora” Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung,” 1905 - J. Prem “ Notas de viajes sobre la Cordillera Occidental de Bolivia” Boletin de la Sociedad Geografíca de la Paz” 1931 – Evelio Echevarria “Las Ascensiones Andinas de Erwin Hein” Andina valparaiso, Chile, 1969 – 1972, PP 34-36 – Friedrich Ahlfeld “ Die Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” ZDOAV, 1932, pp 79-94 - Letter from Pieter Crow to F. Ahlfeld, 1982/1983 - Excerpts from Pietro Meciani’s Articles on the Andes in Rivista Mensile: Santa Vera Cruz, Quimza Cruz 1950/1960 – Evelio Echevarria “Early American Ascents in the Andes, 1854 – 1950” AAJ 1986 - John Thackray “Two Bolivian Climbs” AAJ, 1975 – Evelio Echevarria “A Survey of Andean Ascents: Addenda and Corrigenda to part I “ AAJ 1961 – 1970 and 1964 – Evelio Echevarria “ Ascents in the Quimza Cruz” AAJ 1970 - Thellaeche, J “Viaje de exploracion a la Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” la Paz, revista de Andinismo y excursion N° 6, 1983 – Javier Sanchez revista Desnivel “ Santa Vera Cruz” 2002. Javier Sanchez: Arqueologia de Altuta, 2003.- Activity in la Choco Cota. American Alpine Journal 1998, Javier Sánchez – Santa Vera Cruz. American Alpine Journal 2000, Javier Sánchez – “Bolivia” American Alpine Journal 2001, Javier Sánchez – Quimza Cruz. “Nevados de Choco Cota”. Revista Desnivel 2000, Javier Sánchez – “Andinistas Aymaras” Revista Desnivel, Javier Sánchez – “Renewed interest in the Santa Vera Cruz” High Magazine, Javier Sánchez. Denys Sanjinés “ Quimza Cruz” 2003, La Paz Bolivia.

 
 

Choquetanga et Araca

Sélection de références

Hoek. H. “Bergfahrten in Bolivia” Zeit. DOEAV, 1905, 1906, 1907 – “Exploration of Bolivia” GJ 25, PP 498-513 – Karl Seelig “Berge der Welt, 1948” – “ A Yob’s- Eyes View of the Quimza Cruz” American Alpine Journal 1969 – “ Prof. Dr Theodore Herzog” mitteilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreischichen Alpenvereins, Sep 1950 – Notes onTheodore Herzog’s “ Bergfahrten in Suedamerika” 1925 - Excerpts from Theodore Herzog “ Vom Urwald zu den Gletschern der Kordillere” 1923 and “Der Kampf um die Weltberge” 1934 – Letter from Ken Wilson to Evelio Echevarria, May 1984 - Wilfrid Kuhm “Bolivien, Berge der Welt, 1948” - Joseph Prem “Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939” American Alpine Journal, 1945 – letter from Evelio Echevarria to Pieter Crow 1984 – H. Hoek “Besteigung des Cerro Tacora” Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung,” 1905 - J. Prem “ Notas de viajes sobre la Cordillera Occidental de Bolivia” Boletin de la Sociedad Geografíca de la Paz” 1931 – Evelio Echevarria “Las Ascensiones Andinas de Erwin Hein” Andina valparaiso, Chile, 1969 – 1972, PP 34-36 – Friedrich Ahlfeld “ Die Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” ZDOAV, 1932, pp 79-94 - Letter from Pieter Crow to F. Ahlfeld, 1982/1983 - Excerpts from Pietro Meciani’s Articles on the Andes in Rivista Mensile: Santa Vera Cruz, Quimza Cruz 1950/1960 – Evelio Echevarria “Early American Ascents in the Andes, 1854 – 1950” AAJ 1986 - John Thackray “Two Bolivian Climbs” AAJ, 1975 – Evelio Echevarria “A Survey of Andean Ascents: Addenda and Corrigenda to part I “ AAJ 1961 – 1970 and 1964 – Evelio Echevarria “ Ascents in the Quimza Cruz” AAJ 1970 - Thellaeche, J “Viaje de exploracion a la Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” la Paz, revista de Andinismo y excursion N° 6, 1983 – Javier Sanchez revista Desnivel “ Santa Vera Cruz” 2002. Javier Sanchez: Arqueologia de Altuta, 2003.- Activity in la Choco Cota. American Alpine Journal 1998, Javier Sánchez – Santa Vera Cruz. American Alpine Journal 2000, Javier Sánchez – “Bolivia” American Alpine Journal 2001, Javier Sánchez – Quimza Cruz. “Nevados de Choco Cota”. Revista Desnivel 2000, Javier Sánchez – “Andinistas Aymaras” Revista Desnivel, Javier Sánchez – “Renewed interest in the Santa Vera Cruz” High Magazine, Javier Sánchez. Denys Sanjinés “ Quimza Cruz” 2003, La Paz Bolivia.


Mountaineering Journals

Climbing in the Bolivian Andes: 1939 AAJ, 1943-1945 p 322-327 - AAJ, 1962, p 191 - AAJ, 1969, p 281-284 – AAJ, 1970: Cronica de la cordillera Quimza Cruz por Evelio Echevarria - AAJ, 1965, p 191 – Araca and Choquetanga Groups: AAJ, 1988, p 166-167 – Choquetanga: AAJ, 1968 – 1969 p 444 / AAJ, 1990 p 200/ AAJ, 1991 P 193/ AAJ, 1992 p 157-159 – Laramcota Valley: AAJ, 1994 p 164 – German expeditions 1969: AJ, 1970 p 223 – Northern Araca group map: AAJ, 1970 -71 p 168-170 and AAJ, 1965 p 456 - AAJ, 1982 p 190 note: Judy Sterner Canadian Alpine Journal – AAJ, 1990 p 200 note: Evelio Echevarria -

Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes

I.G.M. 1:50:000, Serie 731 Sheets: 6143 - III, 6142 - IV, 6043 - II, 6143 - II.

 
 
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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Illampu et Ancohuma
  Sélection de références

Hans Ertl, heute “Der Bergsteiger, June 1975, 2 pp. “Dem Bergvagabunden” Zum70. Geburtstag” Der Bertsteiger, march 1970, 1 p. - Alpine Journal may 1968, 5 pp – “El major Andinista Boliviano en 1946” CAB, La Paz - “Report of the University College, Bang Andean Expedition”, 1966 pp - “Report Rudolf Dienst of the Illampu massif” 1937.
Mountaineering in Bolivia “ Archives of Pieter Crow, Photocopied for Liam O’Brien, August 15, 1997 - “From Pieter Crow to Alain Mesili” 15 April 1984, 1p – From Alain Mesili to Pieter Crow 30 April 1984, 1 p - From Pieter Crow to Malcolm Griffin, 2 August 1984, 1 p - Note on Alfred Horeschofsky, “Der Bergsteiger” march 1973 – “ The Reading University Andean Expedition” 1962, Alpine Journal – “Ancohuma’s South – Southeast Ridge” American Alpine Journal, 1969 - “ Cordillera real, 1972 Sangaku, Japan 1973, 1965, 1970 – 71 – “Soberbio Illampu” Campo abierto/ Quito, August – Dec 1982 10 pp – “South American Odyssey” Canadian Alpine Journal, 1980 – “Climbing in Bolivia” Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa, 1963 – “Two Bolivian Climbs, “ American Alpine Journal, 1975 – “Cordillera Real” Die Alpen, 1965 - Lord M. Conway “ Mountain Memories.” London and New York 1920 – M. Conway “ The Bolivian Andes: A Record of Climbing and Exploration in the Cordillera Real in the Years 1898 and 1900 “ - M. Conway, “ Notes on map of the Cordillera real, Bolivia” Geography Journal, vol. XV, PP 528 - Peter Crow “ A History of Mountaineering in the Cordillera Real ( 1898 – 1928 and 1929 – 1950)” Summit Magazine, June 1, 1983, USA - Alain Mesili “ El Nuevo Andinismo en Bolivia, en mundo de los Andes” Presencia 1981 - “The Cordillera real “ Alpine Journal 1959/ 1960 / 1962 / 1963 / 1964 / 1967 / 1968 / 1969 / 1972 – “ Chilenos en la Cordillera Real” revista Andina 1954 - “Legends of the High Andes” Alpine Journal, 1983 - “ Alpinismo Italian Nell Mundo” 1953 - “ Illampu-Nordostgrat” Alpinismus, April 1972 - Mario fantin “ Italiani sulle Montagne del mondo” 1968 – “ A Bolivia Couloir and other Climbers” American Alpine Journal, 1970 - Hans Ertl “ our Climbs in Bolivia” Mountain World, 1953 – “Notas de Alain Mesili con Hans Ertl y A. Horeschofsky sobre el Illampu y sus ascensions desde 1928” CAB, 1976 - From Evelio Echevarria to Pieter Crow, march 26, 1984 - Fritz Schmitt “ Hans Ertl” Der Bergsteiger, Sept 1984 - “ Besteigungen in den Anden von Friedrich Ahlfeld “ by Pieter Crow, Nov 28, 1982, Jan 20, 1884 - Alfred Horeschowsky “ L’ Expedition aux Andes du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien” Revue Alpinisme, 1929, PP 91-94 – Martin Conway “Climbs in the Andes in 1898 “ August 1899 PP 509-523, Alpine Journal - Martin Conway “ Excursion al Illampú Sociedad Geografica de La Paz, Boletin, 1898, PP 191-193 - Pieter Crow “ on Climbing in Bolivia” 1983 – Erwin Hein “ Eine besteigung des Ancohumas in der Cordellere Real ” Mitteilungen des DOAV, May 1931, PP 103-106 – Fred Hendel “ report on rescue commission for Hans Ertl and Hundhammer on Illampu” 1951. Pieter Crow “bibliographical Notes on Adolf Schulze” 1977. Revue vertical “ Bolivie/Alain Mesili, mai 1996, 1997 -France – Revista Desnivel La Cordillera Real de Bolivia parte 1 Hugo Berrios parte II Alain Mesili Septienbre 2002 – La montagne et Alpinisme “La Corrdillere Royale” 1990, 1994 - Alpinisme et Randonnée “ Illimani et Illampu” 1990.

Ancohuma , Mountaineering Journal

1931: pp 422 – 1945: pp 328 – 1965: 453/ 455 – 1967: 397/ 399, Sketch maps and topos/ Sketch by Kev Renolds and Lindsay Griffin: Central Cordillera Real 165 – 1968: pp 205 – 1969: pp 278/ 280 more illistration – 1975: 180 – 1978: pp 79 – 1979: 249/ 252 – 1980: 599/ 590/ 591 – 1983: 203 – 1984: 211/ 212 – 1987: 201 – 1992: 159 – 1997: 237/ 239
.
Ancohuma Lloca, 1969: p 280 - 1979: pp 253 – 1980: pp589. 1978: 578/ 579 – Via Normal Cara Este: (AM: 177t Vía directa este AM: 177t) - Pilar Oeste: (M: 1978, p 178 and Pilar central AM: p 178) – Cara Sur Oeste Via normal 1919 (M: p 174t, 176) – Directo sur 1970 (M: p 174t, 176) – Pilar Nort este 1978 (M: p 174t, 176) – Japanese expedition, (AAJ, 1965, p 455) – Nueva Zelandia Expedition (AAJ, 1965, p 453) -

Sélection de références

Shigeo Abe, “Bolivian Andes, 1968” Sugaku 1969, pp 9 - “Notes on Monika Ertl” 1958, 2 pp - “ The South American Indian as a Pioneer Alpinist” Alpine Journal, May 1968, 5 pp – "Henry Hoek" Sportsmann, Dichter und Gelehrter” Der Bergsteiger, 1974, 1p – “ El 6 de Agosto fue Izada la bandera…Chachacomani ” Gustavo Moeller, Douglas, Moore, 1951, CAB, La Paz - Henry Hoek, “Mitteilungen des Deutshen Alpenvereins”, Dec 1951 - “ En la Cordillera real” revista Anuario Club Andino de bariloche, Argentina, 1952 – “Auf Eisriesen in Inka-Land“ Der Bergsteiger, Nov 1975 – Expedicion Argentino-Boliviana-Chilena, Revista Andina, 1949-1951-52 – “ Cordillera real” Berliner Jubilaeumsexpedition 1969 - CAB “Informativo Mensual – Condoriri” april 15, 1941 – W. Khum “ La Primera Ascension al Condoriri” Revista Geografica Americana (RGA), march 1941, pp. 157-60 - Hugo Hortnagel “ In den Bolivianishen Andean, Pico del Norte, Illampu, Casiri, Chearoco” Die Alpin, 1930 pp 324-332 – Letter from Pieter Crow to Jack Miller, August 28, 1984 - Evelio Echevarria “ Las ascensiones Andinas de Erwin Hein” revista Andina, Chile, 1969-1972, pp 34-36 - Pieter Crow “ Profiles of Participants on German-Austrian Expedition to the Cordillera Real” note on 1928 – “ La Spedizione jusgoslava 1964 alla Cordillera real” Revista Mensile 1966 – “ Note on Bolivia” in Revista mensile 1957 – “ Note on Bolivia’s concerning a Lecture by Rudolf Dienst”, from Zeitschrift des Gesellschaft Zum Erdkundt Berlin, 1929, pp 158-159 - Douglas Moore “En La Cordillera real de Bolivia” Anuario Club Andino Bariloche, 1952 - “ Several articles on the Yugoslavian Expedition to the Bolivian Andes 1964” in Planinski Vestnik, 1965 pp 168 – “ Expedicion Italiana a los Andes de 1958” Montaña (Centro Excursionista de Cataluña) sep-Oct 1958, pp 181-182.

Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes

TM- Landsat color Map, series HO32 Sheet 3139, 3239, 3238, 3140,
I.G.M. Sorata Sheet No 5846 I H731 Series, 1:50.00 scale, Warisata Sheet No 5846 11, 1:50.000 scale.
German Alpinism Club – DAV/ map, Cordillera Real. Illampu 1:50.000
Walter Guzman Cordoba Map
Eschematic Map by Liam O’Brien, Cordillera Real. Map color 2nd Edition 1998
Sketch Map of the Cordillera Real by Bernardo Guarachi 1998 (Available from Los Amigos del Libro)
Areal photos from IGM (Instituto Geografico Militar) 1973

Calzada/ Chearoco et Chachacomani Mountaineering Journal

Reading University Expedition 1962, map and peak list (AJ, 1963, p 219) – Via Normal 1928 (M: 137, 138t) – Cara Este 1973 M: 137, 138t) - Bvarian Expedition 1985 (AAJ, 1988, p 165 and AAJ, 1990, p 194) – CAI SW spur (AAJ, 1974, p 193) – Cambridge University (AAJ, 1962-63, p 510-13)

 
 
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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Negruni/ Condoriri
  Sélection de références

Agnolotti, G. ‘Cordillera Real, 1967’. RM, 86 (1967): 419-27. - Alejos, L. ‘Bolivia: por los dominios del cóndor’, Pyrenaica, n. 158 (1990): 3-7. - ‘Auf Eisriesen in Inka-Land’. Bergsteiger, 42 (1975): 708-11. Condoriri area. - Bayerische Naturfreunde. Anden-Expedition 1969. Expedition report. Negruni-Chekapa group. -Berge im Reich des Sonnengottes. Expedition report. - Konigskordillere im Land der Inka. Edited by H.Ziegenhardt. Linz: Druck u.Verlagsanstalt Gutenberg, 1983. Expedition report. Illampu area & Illimani. - ‘Bergsteigerinvasion in den AndenÒ. Alpinismus, (1970): 59. Bavarian 1969 expedition. - Bonicelli, A. La spedizione del C.A.I. di Bergamo alla Cordillera Real nelle Ande Boliviane. Bergamo, 1969. Peaks in Illampu group. -Bunting, P. ‘Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition 1972’. AJ, 78 (1973): 201-5. -Many ascents in Illampu region. -Challis, D. ‘Cordillera Real, 1966’. AJ, 72 (1967): 292-303. University College North Wales expedition; many ascents in Illampu region. - Cochran, G. ‘Climbs in the Cordillera Real’. Appalachia, 33 (1961): 299-304. - Conway, W.M. The Bolivian Andes: a record of climbing and exploration in the Cordillera Real. London/New York: Harper, 1901. - Cotter, E. ‘Once upon a cordillera’. NZAJ, 21 (1965): 18-38.
-Crow, P. & McWherter, M. ‘The high mountains of Bolivia [Part 2]’. Summit, 28 (Nov-Dec.1982): 6-10, 25. History of climbing series of articles. -‘The high mountains of Bolivia - Part 3: Illampu, Casiri, Chearoco’. Summit 29 (Jul-Aug.1983): 22-25; 29 (Sep-Oct.1983): 26-8. -‘The high mountains of Bolivia--Part 4: the Cordillera Real (1929-1939)’. Summit, 30 (May-Jun. 1984): 23-5. [D.A.V., Sektion Regensburg.] Andenkundfahrt. Report of 1971 expedition. [-----.] ‘Regensburger Anden-Kundfahrt 1971’. Jahr,DAV, 97 (1972): 147-9. -Negruni-Hichucota ‘RAK’ peaks. -Dienst, R. ‘Caca-Aca oder Huayna Potosi’. LA, 2 (1926): 121-7. - In dunkelsten Bolivien. Stuttgart: Strecker & Schr”der, 1926. -‘Bergfahrten in Bolivien’. Zeit,DOeAV, 58 (1927): 91-105. -Doltsch, F. ‘Bolivien’. Jahr,DOeAV, 103 (1978): 190-1. -Drummond, P. ‘Bolivia’s Royal Range’. AJ, 90 (1985): 172-6. Various climbs. -Echevarr¡a, E. ‘The Cordillera Real’. AJ, 64 (1959): 44-53. -Ertl, H. ‘Our climbs in Bolivia’. MW, (1953): 149-70. -Fritz, F. ‘Un problema de roca’. Boletin, C.A.Boliviano, n.4 (Dec.1946): 10-11. - Griffin, M. Tiquimani. Stellenbosch: Kosmo Pub.,1965. - Guridi, J. ‘Gran Condoriri: la montaña deseada’, Pyrenaica, n.158 (1990): 8-9. Cord. Real. -Haase, J. ‘Bergopfer in Bolivien’. Bergsteiger, 12 (1941): 57-8. Deaths of K o hm & Gahrmann on Illimani. - Hagan, B. ‘Ancohuma’. CAJ, 52 (1969): 64-67. - Hasse, D. Cordillera Real: Berliner Jubil„ums Expedition. Expedition report, 1969. Centenary expedition to Apolobamba plus climbs on Illampu. - ‘Illampu-S u dgrat, 1.Begehung. Jubiläumsexpedition zum 100 jóhrigen Bestehen der Alpenvereinssektion Berlin’. Jahr,DAV, 96 (1971): 157-64 -‘Zur Anden-InformationÒ. Alpinismus, ? (May 1970): 9. Illus.of routes on Illampu, S. ridge; and -Hechtel, J. ‘Condoriri - der sch”nste Berg der Welt’. Alpinismus, 12 (1974): 42-3. -Hein, E. ‘Allein u ber den Illimani-Nordgrat’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929): 54-8.- Herzog, T. ‘Die andine Kundfahrt des D.u.Oe. Alpenvereins’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929: 1-4.- Hessburg, J. ‘Climbing in real time: the 1989 American expedition to Bolivia’s Cordillera Real’, The Mountaineer, (Nov.1989): 8-10.
-Hortnagel, H. ‘In den Bolivianischen Anden’. LA, 6 (1930): 323-36. -Horeschowsky, A. ‘L’exp‚dition aux Ande du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien’. Alpinisme, 4 (1929): 91-4. D.Oe.A.V. expedition of 1928. -Hunter, R. ‘The Reading University Andean Expedition, 1962’. AJ, 68 (1963): 219-24.

‘Illampu-Nordostgrat’. Alpinismus, (Apr.1972): 51-2; (Aug.1972): 46. Notes and illustrations; also Negruni group. - Isles, D. ‘Ancohuma’s south-south-east ridge’. AAJ, 16 (1969): 278-80. - Kom, W. ‘Die Erstbesteigung des Condoriri’’. Bergsteiger, 12 (1941): 1-7. -Kurz, M. ‘Bolivien’. BdW, 3 (1948): 359-60. - Laba, R. ÑNorth-east ridge of Huayna Potos¡’. AAJ, 17 (1970): 53-4. - McWherter, M. ‘The high mountains of Bolivia: of mountain gods and early exploration’. Summit, 28 (Jul-Aug.1982): 10-15.
Mesili, A. La Cordillera Real de los Andes-Bolivia. La Paz/Cochabamba: Ed.Los Amigos del Libro/Werner Guttentag, 1984. Detailed guidebook to the principal peaks. Well illustrated. - Miller, J. ‘Huayna Potos¡: the pleasures of ignorance’. AAJ, 19 (1974): 126-8. ‘Illimani's north-east ridge: reverence and rape’. AAJ, 21 (1978): 477-83.- Motte, E.S.G.de la. ‘Illimani and the Nazis’. AJ, 52 (1940): 250-3.

Nelson, M. ‘Astray in the Andes’. AJ, 69 (1964): 217-27. First ascents & traverse of Ancohuma. [Ober o sterreichische Naturfreunde.] Die Naturfreunde in den Anden. Linz: Druck u.Verlagsanstalt - Gutenberg, 1973. Report. Negruni group. - O’Connell, K. ‘South American odyssey’. CAJ, 63 (1980): 32-5 - Pecher, R.& Schmiemann, W. The southern Cordillera Real: a guide for mountaineers, skiers an Walkers. Chur: Plata Publishing, 1977. Selected climbs & excursions. - Peck, A. ‘Climbing Mount Sorata’. Appalachia, 11 (1906): 95-110. Attempts in 1903-4. - Pfann, Hans. ‘Bericht u ber die Anden-Expedition des D.und Oe.Alpenvereins 1928’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929): 5-34. - Pivot, D. ‘Initiation Bolivienne’. La Montagne et Alpinisme, 78 (1982): 286-7. Alla Norte & Pequeño Alpamayo. - Pizzotti, V. ‘Nella Real Cordillera Boliviana. La prima salita del Picco Italia, 5620m. Un tentativo al Huayna Potos¡, 6250m’. RM, 55 (1936): 130-? - ‘Nella Cordillera Real Boliviana. Il Cerro Mururata’. RM, 56 (1937): 135-9. - Posada, Albert [& others.] ‘La Cordillera Real de Bolivia’. Pyrena‹ca, n.132 (1983): 301-9. Illampu group.
-Reinecke, D.R. ‘Climbing in Bolivia’. JMCSA, 66 (1963): 57-68. Tiquimani, Condoriri, etc. - Shepard, S. ‘A Bolivian couloir and other climbs’. AAJ, 17 (1970): 48-52. - Thackray, J. ‘Two Bolivian climbs’’. AAJ, 20 (1975): 85-94. - Troll, C. ‘Anden und Cordillera Real’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929): 35-53. [University College Bangor.] Andean Expedition, 1966: report. See also under Challis. - Vandeleur, C. ‘Lord Conway and Illimani’. AJ, 60 (1955): 172-3. [W o rtembergische Naturfreunde.] WKE 73. Report. Negruni group, ‘WKE’ peaks; Casiri, Chearoco, Illampu. -Zappelli, C. Sulle montagne degli Incas: spedizione alpinistica sulla Cordillera Real in Bolivia. Aosta, 1978.

Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes
  • IGM sheets 59465- IV, Khara Khota pond sheets 5945 - III, Peñas – sheet 5945 - II.
  • Milluni- Walter Guzman Cordoba, Condoriri Negruni
  • Liam O'Brien. Sketch of the Cordillera Real- Bolivia, 1998, Deutcher Alpenverrin Edition (DAV)
  • Landsat Thematic Mapper (TM) 1990. Scale 1:100.000. Sheet 3238,
  • Walter Guzman Cordoba: Cordillera Central Section Condoriri
  • Sketch map by Bernardo Guarachi, 1998

 
 
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VOYAGES ET EXPEDITIONS - Huayna Potosi – Illimani
  Sélection de références

“1877 Huayna Potosi Primera Exploracion y Tentativa Alemana”: Alain Mesili. - “Monte Aillaico, 5,600m” CAB 1949 - Rudolf Dienst “ Caca-Aca oder Huayna Potosi 6220m” 1926, pp 4 “ Rudolf Dienst “ Bergfarhrten in Bolivien" Zeitschrift des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins, 1927, pp 15 - Rudolf Dienst “ Vom Pazifik Zum dach der Neuen Welt” pp 1-30, pp 17 , 141-154, 1927 - “Slowenien en/ Anden” Alpinismus, feb 1965 – “ Handsketch map of Huayna Potosi, Dienst Route” 1931 - Henry Hoek “The Cordillera de Potosi” Alpine Journal, feb, 1906 – Fred Hendel “ Diagram routes of Illimani, Huayna Potosi and Chachacomani” 1951- “ Bolivia, Tiquimani 1956” Revista Andina, jan-jun 1956 - Jack Miller “Huayna Potosi: The Pleassures of Ignorance,” AAJ 1974 – Alain Mesili – Ernesto Sanchez: “ Primera Ascension canaleta Sur al Pico Milluni” Ultma Hora, 1972, La Paz – Federico Ahlfeld, Alain Mesili and Werner Guttentag, “Notas sobre Geografía Andina” Los Amigos del Libro.

Lord Conway “ and Illimani” Alpine Journal 1955 – Martin Conway “Implorations in the Bolivian Andes” Geographical Journal, July 1898, 1899, pp14-34 – Alpine Journal, Nov 1898, “ Note on Ascent of Illimani” PP 241-242 - Pieter Crow Illimani note “ Illimani, 1940, 1941, 1946, 1966, 1967” Published 1975 – “note on Ascent of North Peak of Illimani” 1966 - CAB “ Illimani , April 18, 1940 - CAB “ Los exploradores Alemanes…” 3 aril, 1940 - CAB “Bandera Alemana en el Illimani” aril, 1940 – “ Khum y Expedicion ha muerto en el Illimani” 30 Mayo 1941 - Fred Hendel “ 1941, rescue attempt Fred Hendel – “Alain Mesili y Ernesto Sanchez los andinistas del año” CAB, 1972 - Fred Hendel “ The North Ridge of Mt. Illimani June 1966/ 1967 - Alain Mesili, articles about Illimani, 1971 – Piramide “Sanchez/Mesili, Illimani” Jill Neate, 1992 - Deutsche Bergsteiger am Pico del Norte and Illimani” mitteilungen des Alpenvereins, sep 1950 - “Climbs in the Cordillera Real” Appalachia, June 1961 - “ Cordillera Real ” revista mensile, Jul-August 1977, mar-April 1978, Jun-Feb 1979. American Alpine Journal, 1962/ 1965/ 1967/ 1969/ 1972/ 1974/ 1984/ etc. “ Suedamerika-Literatur” Besteigungschronik der Cordillera Real” 1942 – Alain Mesili “Nuevas Rutas en el Illimani y Mururata” Presencia 1976 - Hans Ertl “ El Pico Norte del Illimani” Anuario Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina, 1951 - Valentino Pizzotti “ Il Cerro Mururata, 5750m Circa” Rivista mensile, April 1937, PP 135-139- Fred Hendel, “Rescue in Illimani 1967” – Fred Hendel, “Ueber die Unzulaenglichkeit des Menschlichen Geistes” – “Illimani’s Northeast ridge: reverence and Rape” American Alpine Journal, 1978 – American Alpine Journal: 1973, 1980, 1987 – High Magazine (GB): 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2002 – “ Illimani 1980” Campo Abierto (Quito-Ecuador) – Pyrenaica, Jul-sep 1983 - “Illimani“ By T. Ifor Rees, 1964 – “Deutsche Bergsteiger am Pico Norte, Illimani” Mitteilungen des Alpenvereins, Sep 1950 – Alpine Journal: 1955, 1962, 1966, 1967, 1969, 1970 – “Legends of the High Andes” Alpine Journal 1983 – Mario fantin “Le Ande” 1979 - Club Andino Boliviano “ Informativo Mensual” aril 1941, Mayo 1941, Jun 1941 – “ Erwin Hein and the North ridge of Illimani, 1928” by Pieter Crow from Hein’s article in Zdoav 1929 – E.S.G. De La Motte “Ilimani and the Nazis”, Alpine Journal 1942 – Erwin Hein “Allein Ueber den Illimani – Nordgrat” ZDOAV, 1929 – Jack Miller “Illimani ‘s Northeast ridge: Reverence and Rape” AAJ 1978.

Mountaineering Journal

Alpine Journal (AJ) vol XIX, p 241-509 note: Sir Martin Conway - Geographical Journal, may 1900 p 528-9 note: on a Map of part of the Cordillera Real by Sir Martin Conway – PYR 158, 1990, AAJ 1983 p 47 - Illimani and Lord Conway, AJ, 1905 and 1955 p 172 – Illimani and the Nazis AJ, 1940 p 250-53 - SW face AAJ, 1986 p 196 – North Peak by West Ridge AAJ, 1985 p 234 – North Peak North Ridge AAJ, 1979-80 p 590 – North Peak by Noerht Ridge AAJ, 1970-71 p 171 - South Peak, to left of normal West Ridge route 1977 AAJ, 1979-80 p 253 - Complete traverse AAJ, 1970-71 p 424 – Travesia integral Sanchez Mesili 1-6/8/72 AM: 80, 83 ande High Info…..

Sélection: Hans Ertl 1953/ 1967

The Mountain World “Our Climbs in Bolivia” 1953 p 149-70 London and Nyw York. – Illimani, Mitteilungen des D.A.V., Sept., 1950 p 131-5 – “Illimani, Der Bergkamerad 1951, vol XXIX p 567-8

Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes

  • The highest part of the Cordillera Real Bolivia from a Triangulation and plane table survey by Sir M. Conway. a.Conway, M. 1:500 000 40 x 45cm col. GJ V.15 p.564 1900 Price GBP15
  • Sketch Map of Caupolican and adjoining portions of N. Bolivia from surveys of G.N. Watney, J.W. Evans, etc. a.Evans, J.W. 1:750 000 33 x 41cm col. GJ V.22 p.724 1903 Price GBP8
  • Plane-Table Sketch-Survey of the West Slope of the Cordellera Real from Illampu to Illimani ... by Sir Martin Conway ... 1898. a .Conway, M. c.Conway, M. [1:340 000] 16 x 56cm col. GJ V.14 p.128 1899 Price GBP3
  • Kammverlaufsskizze der Cordillera Real 1: 500 000 von Troll/ Hein, in Zeitschr. Des DÖAV 1929
  • Kammverlaufsskizze der nördl. Cordillera Real 1:150 000, 1929.
  • Troll/ Hein Nördliche Cordillera Real 1:50 000 in: Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen, 1935.
  • Chekapa-Gruppe (nordwestl. Des Condoriri) 1:50 000, in: “Anden-Expedition 1969 Bayrisch Naturfreunde”
  • Negruni-Tal 1:28 000. Reading University Andean Expedition.
  • Alain Mesili: Cordillera Real. Bolivia. Ubicación de los Nevados – Mapa de Acceso vial a los Nevados. 1979 La Paz, Bolivia
  • Liam O´Brian
    Bernardo Guarachi
Cartes Generales
  • World Map 1:2 500 000.Institut für Kartographie Berlin/ DDR 1966.
  • Mapa de Bolivia en 58 hojas, 1:2 50 000, 1949 y 1958.
  • Sketch of the Country between Cochabamba and Trinidad to illustrate Col. Lloyds Route to Chimoré. 1854. a.Lloyd c.Arrowsmith, J. [1:2 200 000] 19 x 11cm JRGS V.24 p.259 1854 Price GBP10
  • Map of Part of Bolivia from the Surveys of J.B. Minchin. A Musters, G.C. c.Weller, E. [1:850 000] 31 x 76cm col. JRGS V.47 p.201 1877 Price GBP3
  • Map of Part of Bolivia, compiled from survey by J.B. Minchin. a.Minchin, J.B. c.Sharbau, H. [1:3 600 000] 38 x 42cm col. Pro2 V.3 p.448 1881 Price P.o.a.
  • Part of the Bolivian Table Land from a Trigonometrical Survey executed ... in 1882 by J.B. Minchin. a.Minchin, J.B. c.Sharbau, H. [1:1 100 000] 28 x 23cm col. Pro2 V.4 p.712 1882 Price P.o.a.
  • The Beni River from a reduction of the Original Surveys of Dr. Heath supplied by himself. a.Heath, E.R. c.Sharbau, H. [1:2 900 000] 31 x 22cm Pro2 V.5 p.376 1883 Price GBP20
  • Sketch Map illustrating Explorations in Bolivia by Dr. Steinmann, Dr. Hoek & Dr. v. Bistram 1903-4. a.Hoek, H. 1:3 000 000 30 x 23cm GJ V.25 p.588 1905 Price P.o.a.
  • The River Heath and Adjacent Territory to illustrate the paper by Major P.H. Fawcett, R.A. 1910. a. Fawcett, P.H. 1:500 000 42 x 28cm col. GJ V.37 p.476 1911 Price GBP25
  • Bolivia. Sketch Map to illustrate the Explorations of Major P.H. Fawcett, R.G.A. in 1913-14. a.Fawcett, P.H. 1:3 000 000 29 x 32cm GJ V.45 p.272 1915 Price GBP18

Informations Generales

  • Gustav Fester “ Die Sudlichste Kordillere in Zeitsschrift DAV. 1938, p 229-238.
  • Ahlfeld, F. ‘Die Cordillera Quimsa Cruz’. Zeit.DOeAV, 63 (1932): 79-94.
  • [Bayreuther Anden Expedition 1987.] Cordillera Quimsa Cruz Bolivien. Expedition report, [1987]. 49p, illus, maps. Araca and Choquetanga groups.
  • Echevarria, E. ‘Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia: un Karakorum sudamericano’, -Pyrenaica 162 (1991): 211-215.
  • Herzog, T. Bergfahrten in Sudamerika. Stuttgart: Strecker & Schr o der, 1925. Cord. Quimsa Cruz, Cord. Cocapata.
  • Prem, J. ‘Two first ascents in the Bolivian Andes’. AAJ, 4 (1940): 29-34. Quimsa Cruz.
    Climbing in the Bolivian Andes’. AAJ, 5 (1945): 322-32. Quimsa Cruz, Santa Vera Cruz.
  • Seelig, C. ÑEin Ausflug ins Hochland von BoliviaÒ. Jahrbuch,S.A.C., 48 (1912): 153-82. - hellaeche, J Quimsa Cruz.. ‘Viaje de exploración a la Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz’, La Paz, Revista de Andinismo y Excursion no.6 (1983): 13-18.
  • Whewell, R. ‘Yob’s-eye view of the Quimsa Cruz’. AAJ, 16 (1969): 281-4.
  • Hans Ertl, Aus den Bergen Sud-Ost Bolivias, “Zeitcsh. D.Oe.A.V” 1907 - p 121
  • H. Hoek, Besteigung des cerros Tacora in “Osterr. Alpenzeitung” 1905 p 25.
   
 
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