Royal Range

PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS OF THE CORDILLERA REAL

Illampu 6,382m/20,932 ft
Pico Schulze 5,943m/19,493 ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual French/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

• GRADE: AD + / AI 5
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 45° / 55°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE : 1200 m. /918 ft.
• CLIMBING TIME: 8 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 7 days

DAY 1. Travel by private car from La Paz to SORATA. Sleep at a hotel.

DAY 2. Sorata is the starting point form where we get inside the High Mountain Range. We travel in 4x4 (4 hrs. and 46 km.) by a gravel and wavy road. We go up hill on an altitude difference to Chuchu at 4.660 m. We descend through the passage Chuchu down to the UTAJAÑA PAMPA flats camping at 3.860 m.

DAY 3. We start the trek early in the morning. Utjamaña Pampa´s valley stands humble in front of the arrogant Esperanza Peak and North Peak. The trekking is about 4.15 hrs. within the keñua´s trees forest and the weedy place until we reach AGUAS CALIENTES ay 4.650 m. This place is used for camping only for emergency because is an arid place. We go through a vertical rocky passage before we get to Las Morrenas Recientes which is a very important part of the Illampu´s glacier. After 2.15 of trekking we arrive to a gravelly flat at 5.250 m. which is an interesting place for camping. A streamlet that emerges from a promontory of stones provide us water.

DAY 4. Hiking approximately 45 min. in a very unstable rocky area will lead us to the snow flats of HIGH CAMP at 5.600 m. (2 hrs.)

DAY 5. First we climb up an ice wall of 50° with 300 m. of longitude (3.5 hrs.) situated at the lowest part of the principal ascent neck towards the superior peak of Illampu´s summit. Some times the lowest rimaya of the wall shows some technical difficulties. The ice composition is very changing, prevailing the decay ice. The wind is very strong and irregular. Fallowing the peak´s path lead us to the summit and after 2.5 hrs. finally we get to the Illampu´s summit from where we can appreciate the Titikaka´s Lake magnificence, the deep and warm valleys that descent and get lost on the permanent accumulations of snow on the east side where is the Amazon Basin. We are able to see also the Royal Range and his countless snow capped mountains. Return t High Camp.

DAY 6. Return to Ancoma

DAY 7. Return to La Paz.

 

General View

1) Illampu 6,382m/20,932 ft

Illampu (6,382m/20,932 ft) is considered to be an international celebrity, with ice and rock walls from 800 to 1200m. It is the King, Cacique and Mallku (mythical authority respected by the local populations). Illampu is one of the most coveted mountains by national and international expeditions. It is a challenging peak, even by the normal route. Its majestic presence is intimidating and daunting, at times climber's hopes stay in their backpacks. As it is isolated (at least 2 to 3 days trekking to the nearest base camp- Aguas Calientes) expeditions require careful planning and consideration. Illampu dominates the landscape. To the southeast of the turquoise mantle of Lake Titikaka , its fan shaped ridge cuts a sharp line into the sky. Northwest of its summit, perched deep in the valleys, lies the colonial town of Sorata and to the north the steaming jungles of the Yungas

• Duration: 7 days
• Base Camp: Aguas Calientes 4,600m
• High altitude: Porters

Normal Route

Ridge Normal Route

Illampu Summit

Cordillera Real (Royal Mountain Chain)

The Austrian climbers who first discovered this mountain chain during their exploration of the Illampu massif described it as “Der Himalay der Neuen Welt,” or “the Himalayas of the New World”. To Americans it is one of the last unexplored regions in the world and for the French climbers Yves Pollet-Villard, Jean L. Georges, Claude Rey, Georges Bettembourg, Anselme. Baud, Nicolas Jeager, Patrick Gabarrou, Yves Hastier it is the "Adventure of the Century".

“We are the ones who ignore them” a high-ranking official in the Bolivian Army told me, “Because we are not prepared to face our own geographical reality. It is not that we are unaware of the importance of the Cordillera Real and the other mountains. Rather, members of our army believe ancient myths and legends about the dangers of crossing the borders of perennial snow. They have a strong respect for the mountains and will not go beyond certain points. When it is necessary for them to make such travels, however, they do so with much fear and reverence for the mountain spirits”. “Consequently, when we arrive at the foot of the mountains, we view them with respect and edge cautiously around them. In general, those soldiers who have lived for many years near the mountains respect the powers of the cordillera as well as the legends. For these reasons, I don’t know a single soldier who is enthusiastic about climbing the mountains”.

The Cordillera Real forms the towering eastern wall of the Altiplano that separates it from the western jungles or Yungas. From the summit of the Cordillera Real mountains, there is a vertiginous drop where glaciers seem to have catapulted into a void to form the deep, jade-green valleys of the Yungas. The contrast to the barren Altiplano could not be more pronounced as all the rivers descend cavalcading into the verdant valleys, to eventually meet the great Amazon River and their final destination in the Atlantic Ocean. To the northeast of the Cordillera Real lies the more isolated Cordillera Apolobama and to the south the Cordillera Quimza Cruz (Three Crosses), otherwise known as the "Chamonix of the Andes" because of it's extensive rock climbing potential.

Important note for Climbers Climbing Illampu is very different to, and much more challenging than mountains such as Condoriri, Huayna Potosi or Illimani. It requires a high level of technical skill, excellent physical fitness as well as psychological preparation. It is imperative to have very clear objectives when climbing Illampu. As in other parts of the world, such as the Himalaya, the Alps and the North and South Poles, the Andes have experienced extreme climate changes, and therefore there is significant seasonal variation in the route characteristics. After much discussion with other high mountain guides, I have arrived at the decision that it is impossible to provide exact descriptions and photos for every seasonal variation and so I have utilized a range of photos from the period 1969 – 2000. History - First ascent After many exploratory expeditions, climbers Hans Pfan, Alfred Horeschowsky, Hugo Hortangel and Erwin Hein finally reached the summit of Illampu in 1928. Their climb was as much a feat of cartography as of Andinism, as at the time the map of the Cordillera Real, designed by C. Troll, was full of inaccuracies and blanks. The expedition route is today's Normal Route, and ascends the main northwest wall to meet the summit ridge between the pyramid of Huayna Illampu and the true summit. This was a significant achievement as the team had little in the way of the modern, technical climbing equipment available today.

Pico del Norte 6,050m/ 19.950 ft
Gorra de Hileo / ice cap 5,700m/18,696ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual French/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

South Est Face

First climbed in 1928, Pico del Norte, 6,050m/ 19,844 ft is the northern most peak of the Illampu massif. This relatively unknown and seldom climbed peak consists of three principal pillars, shaped into a classic pyramid. These mixed pillars have a number of steep ice couloirs (70°). Pico Del Norte is an aesthetically elegant mountain with a number of attractive, intermediate and difficult, ice and rock routes. There are currently five known routes on this mountain, three by the author and two by German alpinists.

• Duration:7 days
• Base Camp: Laguna Negra 4,700m
• High Camp: Glacier 5,660m
  
  

Pico del Norte Est Face

Gorra de Hielo

INTRODUCTION

This is a very beautiful mountain of 5,700m/18,696 ft, situated next to Pico Esperanza. It is seldom climbed as there is little information about it and the approaches are long. Similar in appearance to Alpamayo in Peru (Cordillera Blanca), Gorra De Hielo (Ice Cap) may one day attract more climbers. The date of the first ascent remains a mystery. E. Sanchez, R. Olivos, and the author were lucky to open the ”directisima”. All in all this mountain has only been climbed a total of twenty times.

Brief historical account

The first expeditions from 1879 to1895, departed from the Altiplano town of Achacachi to reach the much feared and respected south glacier of Illampu. Despite an exhaustive research of the Austrian and Bolivian Alpine Archives, there have been no surviving memoirs of the first two expeditions. In 1919, the alpinists R. Dienst and A. Schulze spent three weeks looking for a shorter approach to the mountain than that of previous expeditions. They crossed a number of lakes above the town of Warisata, to reach the southern Ancohuma glaciers, only to be confronted by insuperable ice conditions near the south summit. After a further seven days, the climbers managed to traverse the "Great Ancohuma Glacier" to the Southwest ridge and ascend the much-coveted summit. An extraordinary achievement, given the lack of information available and the rudimentary equipment of the time.

According to the Chronicles of the time, “The triumphant team, in order to overcome the 'Devils' ridge, spent six days battling extreme conditions, desperate, with diminishing strength and no supplies. Finally on the summit, the two alpinists broke into sobs, and hugged with an affection which could only be engendered by so many days of struggling against death” After crossing the last 400 meters of deep snow, Dienst and Shulze reached the summit around six in the afternoon. They were near death from the freezing temperatures, their clothes tattered and torn, their skin scraped by the rocks and their lips blistered and bleeding. The two men had undoubtedly performed an exceptional feat, comparable to the first victory of an 8,000m/26,240 ft peak.

Ancohuma (Jankho Uma) 6,427m/21,080 ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual French/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

Normal Route (South-West face)

• GRADE: D / AI 2 , AI 3
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 40° / 45°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 960 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 11 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 7days

The way in to this imposing snow capped mountain is through the town of Sorata. (2,700 m)

DAY 1. Travel from La Paz towards Sorata in private transport (3.5 hrs). Hotel.

DAY 2. We start trekking towards Titisani mine (4.460 m)

DAY 3. We keep trekking until we arrive to Lagoon Glacier (5040m). Base camp.

DAY 4. We start climbing on the lower small tongue (5 hrs.) until we arrive to the snow flats where the High Camp is (5.800m).

DAY 5. We climb up to the summit (6 hrs.). The summit clearly looks like the ox´s back which is in between of two big snow flats. The ascent is quite technical. Descend to the Glacier Lagoon/ Laguna Glaciar.

DAY 6. Return trekking to Sorata. We spend the night at a Hotel.

DAY 7. Return to La Paz

Ancohuma South West

The southern aspect of Ancohuma has a long ridge, like a spinal column from which a number of smaller ridges branch off. It is a complex, imposing mountain, as impressive as many of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru . As the crow flies, the distance from the north peak, (6,427m/21,086ft) to the "neck" (5,800m/19,024ft) is 3,600m/11,808 ft and twice that on foot.

There have been many expeditions to Ancohuma . The first victory to the main summit once again belongs to two German alpinists, Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze in 1919. As the Andean Cub records from the time have disappeared, there are few available details of this climb. The two alpinists departed from Cocoyo toward Laguna Negra, they then crossed most of the glacier to climb the "neck" and followed the main ridge to the summit of Ancohuma.

• Duration: 6 days
  
• Base Camp : Laguna Glacier 5,100m
  
• High Camp: 5,700m

CHACHACOMANI 6,074m/19,922 ft
CHEAROCO 6,127m/20,101ft
Las Tres Marias (The Three Marias)
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual Franch/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

To quote Yossi Brain, "Chachacomani is my favorite mountain. I look at it and become contemplative". Before this mountain it is impossible to remain indifferent.

The German- Bolivian expedition of 1947 achieved the admirable first ascent; it was a difficult climb, with few financial and technical resources and little planning. It was a crazy expedition, one that embodied the true spirit of adventure.

Chachacomani

• Duration: 9 days
• Base Camp : Leche Khota Lake 4,700m
• High Camp : 5,300m
  

Climbing in Chachacomani, Est Face

History
The first description of this mountain comes from the 1929 French expedition of De Lagrange. The Chachacomani and Chearoco massif is situated between the Illampu/ Ancohuma and the Condoriri groups. It has one of the most difficult access routes and remains the least explored area of the Bolivian Andes. It holds a magnetic appeal for the locals of the region. Many of their houses are found close to frozen lakes and moraines at 5,300m. During the glacial retreat of the quaternary period, innumerable chaotic valleys and sub valleys were formed, which make finding a way to the mountain a challenge.

To quote Yossi Brain, "Chachacomani is my favorite mountain. I look at it and become contemplative". Before this mountain it is impossible to remain indifferent.

The 1964 IGN map shows the altitude of the peak to be 5,992m/19,653 ft. It also lumps Chachacomani together with San Pablo at 5,496m/18,026 ft. It is very confusing. However the same map on page 5946 - III shows the altitude at 6,140m/20,139 ft. Liam O'Brien gives 6,000m/19,680 ft. Alain Mesili 6,095m/19,991 ft. Finally the GPS coordinates claim 6,140m/ 20,139 ft. For several decades now some maps have claimed extraordinary altitudes for Andean Mountains, for example Illampu, 6,700m/21,976 ft and even more impressively, The Times World Atlas's Ancohuma 7,012m/22,960 ft.

The German- Bolivian expedition of 1947 achieved the admirable first ascent; it was a difficult climb, with few financial and technical resources and little planning. It was a crazy expedition, one that embodied the true spirit of adventure.

Las Tres Marias (The Three Marias)

BRIEF HISTORY

Once again, as in other parts of Bolivia, the data available on the early explorations and climbs is very scarce. Douglas Moore and Gustavo Moeller passed through the valleys of Janko Laya (also written Jankko Laya, Jancko or Jankko Lacaya) and of the Tres Marías, before their successful summit of Chachacomani in 1947. That expedition included the German alpinists, Guenther Buccholtz, Freiedrich Fritz and the Bolivians Guillermo Sanjinez and Isaias Paz. Friederich Fritz left a small hand sketched map and a brief written account in the archives of the Club Andino Boliviano (sadly, 90% of these archives have disappeared). The author, admirer of Douglas Moore, has extensively and unsuccessfully searched these archives for a trace of this data. Hans Ertl and Douglas Moore were prevented by bad weather from climbing in the Tres Marias group, after climbing in the Negruni and Chajowara massifs. In 1971 I asked Hans Ertl what it was like? He told me that they were particularly attracted by the south face, but hadn't been able to get to it due to heavy snowfall. Ertl tried many times to return to the region. Where did the name "Tres Marías" come from? According to Hans Erlt, it was Douglas Moore who christened the mountains with the name.Douglas Moore, Gustavo Moeller and Guillermo Sanjinez climbed the normal route, by the "Leche Khota" ridge in 1952.

Condoriri 5,648m/ 18,525 ft
Pequeño Alpamayo 5,370m/17,618ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual French/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

DAY 1. Travel (2 hrs.) from La Paz city to TUNI. Trek about 3 hrs., across the principal valley of Condoriri, up to the Lake CHIAR KHOTA (4.650 m.) where the Base Camp is.

DAY 2. Acclimatization trekking (3 hrs). A path barely marked on the sand with plates pizarroza let us to arrive to AGUJA NEGRA (Black Needle) 5.270 m. Then return to the Base Camp.

From here we have different options:

PIRÁMIDE BLANCA 5,230 m

NORMAL ROUTE

• GRADE: AD/ AI 1
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 40°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 780 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 5 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 1 day

DAY 3. From the Base Camp, we climb (1.30 hrs.) through the Condoriri valley towards the glaciers. We approach by Pico Tarija. We begin to ascend until we reach the summit of Pirámide Blanca (White Pyramid) which takes us 5 hrs. on the normal route on the South - West face. The technical difficulty is 40° for a longitude of 20 m. at the end of the ascend. Return to base camp

PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO 5,379 m

• GRAD: AD/ AI 2 (easy)
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 50°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 250 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 6h.30 .
• JOURNEY: 1 day

DAY 4. This is the second most popular summit. It is a semi-technical scale. From the Base Camp we arrive to the glacier (the same route of P. Ilusión). We climb for 3 hrs without any technical difficulty from the central part of the glacier up to PICO TARIJA (5,300 m). We go down hill and quickly we reach an ice-snow neck which is directly connected with the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo. On your way you will find a technical wall with an inclination of 50° and a longitude of 80 m. which link us to a small snow platforms which give us an easy ascend to the summit. From the ice neck it is about 1.30 hrs. of climbing, however, the time you will take to climb up could vary depending on your acclimatization and your body shape.

CABEZA DEL CONDOR 5,648 m

NORMAL ROUTE

• GRADE: AD/ AI 4
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 40° / 50° / 60°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 580 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 7 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 1 day

This is the most predominant summit of the region; it was first climb by Wilhelm Kuhm in 1.941.
From the base Camp we climb up for 1.30 hrs. in between the rocks until the end of the right edge of the Condoriri´s principal glacier. We climb a corridor of ice and snow of 40° then we arrive to a flat area on the glacier. We walk 2 hrs. to get to the summit´s base then we start the technical part with a wall of 50° of inclination and 400 m. of longitude up to the summit. On our way up we shall find short passages of 55°. The route to the crest is very fragile and exposed to the precipice.

DAY 6: Return to La Paz.

The native communities see Condoriri as a mystical mountain, one that controls not only the natural phenomena of the weather, but also the fauna and the flora. Each mountain occupies a special place in the Andean Cosmovision and Condoriri is one of Thunupa's (See introductory sections) creations. Condoriri is shaped like a Condor about to take flight (with wings expanded). For climbers, closer to earth and less mystical and contemplative, it means 65° ice walls projected toward the sky. The eastern aspects of Condoriri have ice couloirs of 400m to 500m. The loose black rock is totally unsuited to climbing. The south face, seen from the valley and the road (La Paz-Lake Titikaka) is climbable only during the coldest months of the year, May to September. Due to its close proximity to La Paz , its enchanting setting and variety of available climbs, it has become one of the most frequented climbing regions.

 

	Duration: 4 days Base Camp: laguna Chiar Khota 4,700m High Camp: 5,140m

Condoriri Summit

The native communities see Condoriri as a mystical mountain, one that controls not only the natural phenomena of the weather, but also the fauna and the flora. Each mountain occupies a special place in the Andean Cosmovision and Condoriri is one of Thunupa's (See introductory sections) creations. Condoriri is shaped like a Condor about to take flight (with wings expanded). For climbers, closer to earth and less mystical and contemplative, it means 65° ice walls projected toward the sky. The eastern aspects of Condoriri have ice couloirs of 400m to 500m. The loose black rock is totally unsuited to climbing. The south face, seen from the valley and the road (La Paz-Lake Titikaka) is climbable only during the coldest months of the year, May to September. Due to its close proximity to La Paz, its enchanting setting and variety of available climbs, it has become one of the most frequented climbing regions.

PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO 5379m /17,643 ft

The South African couple Irene and Keith Whitelock, first climbed Pequeño Alpamayo or Alpamayo Chico, in August, 1962. Over the past ten years it has become very popular, with hundreds of visitors every season. It is called small Alpamayo, because of its likeness to Alpamayo in Peru .

Duration: 2/3 days Base Camp: Chiar Khota Lake 4,700m

The South African couple Irene and Keith Whitelock, first climbed Pequeño Alpamayo or Alpamayo Chico, in August, 1962. Over the past ten years it has become very popular, with hundreds of visitors every season. It is called small Alpamayo, because of its likeness to Alpamayo in Peru.

Huayna Potosí (Caca Aca) 6,088m/19,968 ft
Tiquimani 5,515 m/18,899 ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual Franch/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

NORMAL ROUTE- EAST SIDE

• GRADE: AD/ AI 2
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 40°/50°/55°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 1.100 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 7 hrs.
• JOURNEY : 2 / 3 days

This Mountain is considered the easiest in South América, at this height. You need to be very well acclimatized to attempt the summit (our suggestion is the trekking Tuni-Zongo at 4,700m./ 15,420 ft.).
The east face receives massive expeditions, however the west and north faces challenges expert climbers. The first climbers were the German R. Dienst and O. Lohse in 1919.

OPTION 1 : 2 DAYS

DAY 1.- Leave La Paz, towards Zongo Platform ( 1 ½ hrs.), and to Huayna Potosí base camp, unload the equipment and trek for three hours up to the beginning of the glacier, 5,200 m./ 17,060 ft. Snow platforms, and badges of stone slates offer us a High camp.

DAY 2.- Beginning early ( 2:00 or 3:00 a.m. ) we will ascend two important semi technical passages, one is the small shovel aprox. 50 m./164 ft. and big shovel at 5,900m./19,357 ft. that drives us directly to the Summit, The North pick, the highest point, at 6,088 m./19,974 ft. Return to base camp and La Paz.

OPTION 2 : 3 DAYS

DAY 1.- Leaving La Paz towards Zongo Platform and base camp. Unload the equipment and go to the Old Glacier for Mountain training. Camping.

DAY 2.- Trekking to High Camp 5,200 m. / 17.060 ft.

DAY 3.- Ascent to the summit and return to La Paz city.

HUAYNA POTOSÍ - FRENCH ROUTE

• GRADE: AD/ AI 2
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 50°/65°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE : 280 m./918 ft.
• CLIMBING TIME: 6 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 2 day

DAY 1.- We go from La Paz, towards Zongo Platform and base camp. Trek up to High Camp (5,200 m./ 17,060 ft.)

DAY 2.- We prepare to climb, leave High Camp aprox. at 3:00 a.m. , beginning in the normal route, then stray to the left until the beginning of the technical wall. We ascend the wall for aprox. 3 hrs. Arrive to the south pick summit (5,950 m./ 19,521 ft.), then go to the north pick at 6,088m./ 19,974 ft. Return to High Camp and to La Paz.

HUAYNA POTOSÍ - WEST SIDE

• GRADE: TD/ AI5
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 55°
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 900 m./2,953 ft.
• CLIMBING TIME: 10 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 2 days

 

DAY 1.- From La Paz city we drive to Milluni, 1 ½ hrs., then continue towards Tuni town, and stop near María Lloco, then trek until the bottom of the west wall aprox. 1 hr. Camping.

DAY 2.- We leave the base camp aprox. At 3:00 a.m. to ascend the ice wall with edges of mixed technics, aprox 10 hrs. We will arrive to the North pick summit. Come back by the normal route (aprox. 4 hrs.) east side. Return to La Paz City.

Huayna Potosi, 6,088m/19,968 ft, only 25 km. Away from La Paz , is the most frequented mountain in Bolivia. It is almost certainly the most often climbed 6,000m mountain in the world. Vehicle access along the La Paz- Zongo road goes all the way to the foot of the mountain. On the side of this road there is a humble refuge, known as the “Casa Blanca”, where for a modest price it is possible to camp and store equipment. Further along the road and next to the hydroelectric station of Milluni- Zongo there is a more modern private Alpine refuge. An easy three to four hour walk from either of these two sites leads to the new high camp of “La Piedras” (the rocks), 5,150m/16,892 ft and a further 1.5 hours to the “Campamento Argentino” 5,450m/17,880 ft (the traditional high camp, now not so popular).

Duration: 3 days Base Camp: refuge/ camping 4,700m High Camp: 5,100m

HISTORY

The history of Huayna Potosi has been shrouded in mystery. Even the meticulous chronicler of the Andes, Sir Martin Conway was confused about it. In 1877, at the time Charles Wiener and his team made the first ascent of Illimani, a group of German climbers were trying their luck on Huayna Potosi. Without appropriate equipment and with little practical information, they set off toward the unclimbed peak. Their unsuccessful attempt met with tragedy, as four climbers died at an altitude around 5,600m/18,368 ft. The two surviving members of the fated expedition retreated in deteriorating conditions and lost in constant cloud cover they wandered aimlessly until, eleven days after beginning the climb, they found their way to the Zongo platform where they died from exhaustion. On September 9, 1898 another expedition, this time Austrian climbers, set out for the adventurous climb. After 5 days at a high camp of 5,900m/19,352 ft they were forced to descend. Finally, in 1919 the Germans R. Dienst and O. Lhose reached the south summit, (fractionally higher than the north summit). Many other attempts, by Italian and Swiss teams, failed to reach the north summit that year. In 1940 the Italian Pietro Chiglione headed an expedition which managed to climb a number of other peaks in the region, such as Taquesi, Cumacutincora and Michuloma.

Huayna Potosi First Ascents

1) First exploration: 1877, Germans Exploration: 1909. 2) First ascent: R. Dienst, O. Lohse: 1919. 2nd: R. Bauer, A. Boetiger. 3rd: 1945 Liggens Torffer, G. Sanjinez, D. Moore, E. Simon, J. Torres. 4th: 1950 Hans Ertl and Peter Daueisberg.

TIQUIMANI 5,519m/18,102 ft

INTRODUCTION

Tiquimani 5,519m/ 18,102ft (I.G.M) and 5553m/ 18,213ft (GPS), to the east of Huayna Potosi, is known as the guardian of the Zongo Valley. Its vertical south faces stands proud and sombre- an indefatigable sentinel. Compared to other mountains of the region, it is of low altitude, but this is more than compensated for by the technical challenges it presents. Only 3-km long and 1,3 km wide, it is a small mountain, with more complexities however than its size would suggest. The west and south faces are a labyrinth of rock and ice. Tiquimani is a respected, mountaineer's mountain. Few climbers have ventured onto her granite walls and blue-green veins of ice.

It is mistakenly labelled as Illampu on the IGM map of 1983 (Sheet: Milluni No. 5945 – II). Frequently shrouded in clouds, it is respected and feared by the locals. They call her the "Eternal Guardian". Her body is like a pyramid pointing to the heavens. Many Europeans have compared Tiquimani to the Matterhorn. After my arrival in Bolivia in 1969, I spent many years exploring the mountain and memorising her complex geography from every conceivable angle. In 1963, Ramon Azero and other Spanish climbers looked for routes up the south face, only to be turned back at the west ridge. In 1973, Wurzer and colleagues managed the first ascent. Up to that time I had spent three years surveying and dreaming about the south face, but they bet me to it. It was an honour to congratulate them on their return to the Andean Club's headquarters. In May of the following year I teamed up with a group of French Alpinists for a successful climb of the south face, and in 1985 with Ricardo Arias, we climbed a new line (Paris-La Paz route), to the east of my original route. With Jean Affanasief, on an attempt on the west ridge, we retreated due to constant rockfall. I am unaware of any ascents over this extremely cold, dark route. Tiquimani has her attractions, to quote Lionel Terray in Conquistadors of the Useless; "one feels close to the absolute, indescribable and useless at the same time".

Illimani 6,462m/21,195 ft
Mururata 5,775m/18,942 ft
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual Franch/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

• GRADE: PD/ AI3
• AVERAGE SLOPE ANGLE: 45° / 50° / 60° (Wall)
• ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE: 1400 m.
• CLIMBING TIME: 7 hrs.
• JOURNEY: 4 days

Illimani is the royal Range Snow capped mountain with a lot of history. Many people try to climb it up due to his magnificence. The Aymara culture believes that hi is a god. The Illimani it is located at 72 km. from La Paz and we climb the normal route (West face). The Illimani has 5 peaks:

• South Peak (Pico del Indio9), to 6.490 m.
• Central Peak (Cóndor Blanco), to 6.280 m.
• North Peak (Pico Kuhn), to 6.002 m.
• South – East Peak (Pico Paris), to 6.287m.

DAY 1. In private transport we go from La Paz until Estancia UNA (3.5 hrs.) at 3.600 m. Then we do a trekking up to Puente Roto (Broken Bridge), we camp at the Base Camp (4.700 m.)

DAY 2. We climb up to High Camp “Nido de Cóndores” (Condor´s Nest) at 5.500 m.

DAY 3. This day it is a large scale on ice and snow with 2 small technical parts of 50° until we arrive to South peak (7 hrs.). Return to the Base Camp.

DAY 4. Return to La Paz City.

Illimani North Peak

 

Over the last decade few new routes have been climbed on Illimani . Hans Ertl had a special love for this mountain. The rock pillars and couloirs of ice on the east face first attracted the attention of the French alpinist, Lionel Terray. As a mark of respect and to express my admiration for Terray. I named a route after him ( Lionel Terray Route, Southeast Face, South Peak ).

Illimani has a magnetic attraction. In 1999, 500 climbers reached the summit via the normal route. The numbers continue to increase. I have guided many teams up the mountain and still, the pure whiteness, the fine, near vertical ridges continue to exert a magical pull. Illimani is a mystical mountain. The summit seems to dominate the surrounding landscape; the barren Altiplano, the copper-blue waters of Lake Titikaka flowing into Peru , the Sajama volcano spilling into Chile and the verdant valleys tumbling into the watershed of the Amazon. The view is transcendent and awe inspiring.

Duration: 4 days Base Camp: 4,700m High Camp : Nido De Condores 5,500m

Alain Mesili in the Pyramide Khoya Kollu

HISTORY
In 1877, the false south summit, now known as "Pico Del Indio", was climbed by Charles Wiener. The government of Bolivia employed the Peruvian, Jose Ocampo, to accompany Wiener, Baron Jorge de Grumkow and three unnamed indigenous "guides". They left La Paz on the 10th of May 1877 and summitted nine days later. According to Wiener's writings the climb was for scientific purposes. As many claimed that Illimani's altitude was over eight thousand meters, he intended to utilise a barometer and a thermometer to measure the boiling point of water at different altitudes and from that extrapolate the exact altitude of the mountain. Wiener chronicled the historical events of the climb in the following text, quoted in its entirety from archives of the Ministry of Public Works, in Paris.

"The Illimani Mountain towers above a gigantic, almost rectangular base. The expedition set off at two in the morning and reached an altitude of 4,278m/14,031 ft by sunrise. At that point the mules had to be abandoned and the expeditioners continued on foot. At 4,545m/18,187 ft they entered the world of snow. As they gained altitude, the angle of the ascent became steeper and they were forced to use their hands to continue climbing. Around 2:15 pm an altitude of 5,400m/ 17,712 ft was reached. When Don Jose Mario Ocampo was overcome by vertigo, the Indians refused to carry on, claiming that Gods were guarding the sanctuary of ice. The following morning, battling against ferocious winds from the south, slipping here and sinking there into deep snow, the Alpinists finally reached the south col. At 15:20 they decided to push on for the summit. Not one of them had a semblance of humanity; they had all suffered from the intense cold and fatigue, their faces were violet coloured with dark purple stains and the conjunctiva of their eyes had turned red. The sun and wind burns were excruciatingly painful. Of the ten Indians who set off with them from Cotaña, only three remained and they were desperate to descend as soon as possible. After a challenging climb they sped up and reached the highest point, a small rock platform dangerously exposed to the tremendous storms. The atmospheric conditions were extremely clear and hundreds of valleys and ridges could be seen on the horizon. These were woven, by natural forces into a perfect tapestry that is still a mystery to human beings. A few minutes sufficed to make the scientific readings that had motivated the climb of this Andean Mountain. The barometer reading was 518mm and the water boiling temperature was 79 degrees. These results were carefully recorded on a piece of paper which was placed in a double glass and metal tube, and buried in the snow. Charles Wiener's dog never left his side and died shortly after the descent.

Illimani is 20,112 feet above sea level on the 19th of May 1877, at 14:50. The writer has been commissioned by the Government of the Republic of France for a scientific mission in the Andes and is accompanied by the engineer, Mr. Baron de Grumkow and Jose Maria Ocampo on this successful climb. The barometer shows an altitude of 20,112 feet, an altitude that has not previously been reached anywhere else in the world. As the first person to step on this part of the planet, I have a right to name the summit, which I have called "Pico de Paris", for the Southeast peak of the massif known as Illimani. I am currently standing on the parallel 70°6'21", the longitude 16°6'21" and the altitude 6,131m".

On the 5th and 6th of September 1898, Sir Martin Conway and his two guides climbed past the Pico Paris, to reach the highest point on the mountain, the south peak. On the 26th and 27th of May, 1915, Adolf Schulze, Eugen Bengel, R. Dienst and E. Overlack did the second ascent. Albert Borsig and Fritz Kubler who approached the mountain did the third climb in 1929, by the Urania mine (4,800m/15,744 ft). In an expedition motivated by Nazi political purposes, W. Kuhn and R. Boetcher reached the summit in 1940. They were protesting against the German Jewish exodus to South America. The Alpinists planted an 8m Nazi flag on the summit. A few days later the British climber, E. de la Motte taught a Bolivian, Jesus Torres how to use crampons and they climbed the mountain to get rid of the offensive flag. The first solo ascent was by Hans Ertl in 1950 and a succession of German and Austrian expeditions dominated climbing on the mountain until 1965, when the first of several French expeditions arrived in the Bolivian Andes.

In 1952, Hans Ertl and Gert Schoeder made the first ascent of the north peak, by the central ridge. The avalanche prone route had claimed the lives of several climbers from a multinational expedition in 1937. Inspired by the successful climb of Ertl and Schoeder, many young climbers from the Bolivian Andean Club such as Douglas Moore, Guillermo Sanjines and Gustavo Moeller set off toward the summit of the mountain that Bolivians had dreamt of climbing for over one hundred years.

WESTERN CORDILLERA / Occidental Cordillera
SAJAMA 6,549m/21,486 ft
PAYACHATAS (THE TWINS)
	Experience in Climbing recommended Tour Costs Included Mountain Guides ( Bilingual Franch/Spanish and English) Cook and an assistant Pack animals Collective Technical Equipment High Altitude Porters Private Transport

According to scientific measurement and maps, Sajama (6,542m/21,457 ft – 6,549m/ 21,480 ft) is part of the Cordillera Occidental (or Western Mountain Range). It is the highest mountain in Bolivia and was first climbed in 1939, by Austrians Josef Prem and Wilfrid Kuhm, and the Italian Piero Ghigione. The volcano is situated in the Sajama National Park , a protected region where hunting is prohibited. The volcano is only a few kilometres from the customs point at Tambo Quemado on the Bolivia/Chile border and it is easily recognisable as it stands out from the rest of the volcanoes in the Cordillera Occidental.

The Sajama National Park has an extraordinary biodiversity, and is of interest to scientists, archaeologists, and adventure tourists. However, despite efforts to keep the area ecologically protected and focused on ecotourism, many species of plant and animal life are in danger of extinction. The park's scenery is very attractive, and includes a forest of the highest trees in the world, Keñua. There are also thermal springs, historic Colonial churches, villages of traditional adobe houses and an abundance of wildlife that includes Andean cats, vicuñas, suris, chockas and a variety of other little known bird species

 

• Duration: 4 days
  
• Base Camp : Sajama village 4,400m
  
• Base Camp II : 5,700m

Marking the border between Chile and Bolivia , these volcanoes are also known as the “little brothers” of Sajama . They are technically very straightforward to climb and were first described in an article in the "Austrian Alpine Journal" in 1905 by H. Hoek. Parinacota (6,330m/ 20,767ft.) was first climbed in December 1928 by Austrian climber Joseph Prem and Bolivian climber Carlos Teran. Their accounts of the climb were published in Germany and in the United State 's, “American Alpine Journal” in 1945, many years after their ascent. The twin brother of Parinacota, Pomerata (6,222m/ 20,413ft), was first climbed by the Bolivian mountaineers Edmundo Garcia and Rene Zalles in 1946. The Payachatas are frequently climbed and are a very popular destination for tourists who come by jeep or to trek. Access to the Payachatas has been made easy thanks to the international highway that runs between Bolivia and Chile . To the south of these volcanoes is Acotango (6,050m/ 20,000ft), which also offers some good climbing opportunities.

Parinacota and Pomerape

Duration: 4 days Base Camp I : Sajama Village 4,400m, Camp II , 4,700m High Camp: 4,900m

A BRIEF HISTORY

Located on the 18º south latitude, Sajama is one of the continent’s oldest volcanoes. The French glaciologist Bernard Francou is currently studying the volcano's origin and history. The first Sajama expedition, by a group of British climbers from a London club, was in 1908. Their expedition was part of a project to make a comprehensive map of Latin America. On August 20, 1908 the group left Arica, Chile and headed out into the Atacama Desert to study the lives of the desert inhabitants, and those peoples living in the highlands of what is now the Lauca National Park. The group crossed the passage known as “Charaña” and explored the Payachata Volcanoes. Unfortunately, the group left no detailed reports or journals about their Andean explorations, and all of their accounts and experiences were taken back to England. The only information I was able to find was the name of the expedition’s leader, Sir Adams Lowell, which I discovered in Sucre in 1972.

The first attempt to climb Sajama was by Joseph P. Prem in 1927, who followed the northeast ridge to an altitude of 6,200m/20,336 ft. In 1931, Stricker and Prem, in their second attempt climbed the north route to a point 100m below the summit. In 1939, Prem and Piero Ghiglione successfully climbed Sajama by the northeast ridge and encountered such severe storms on the summit, that they had to lie down in the snow to stop the winds from blowing them away. Federico Ahled writes:
"In August of that year (1939), the Italian climber Piero Chiglione, famous for his ascent of the Golden Thorn in the Karakoram (7,260m/23,812 ft) and numerous other peaks around the world, came to Bolivia. There had been three failed attempts on Sajama and he wanted to be the first climber to ascend Bolivia’s highest summit. Chiglione’s expedition, which included Prem, Ahled and Ahled’s wife left from Charaña. The husband and wife team accompanied the expedition to carry out scientific investigations, and so did not attempt the climb. Despite the stormy and cloudy weather, the climbers set off along the northeast ridge on the 26th of August. It was an admirable achievement as Ghiglione, who was 59 years old, climbed the 1,400m/4,592 ft route from high camp 5,690m/18.663 ft to summit, in 11 hours. Apart from having to cut small steps in the 45º slopes, all other obstacles were uneventfully overcome. Thick clouds and a storm on the summit made detailed observations impossible."

In October of the same year after several failed attempts, Wilfred Kuhm reached the summit. Many years later in 1946, T.I. Rees, W. Tienken, E. de la Motte, and T. Polhemus, who repeated the original route, made a third ascent. The fourth ascent, in 1951 was by Germans Hans Ertl and Alfonso Hundhammer, and six Bolivian soldiers from the military post in Oruro. Unfortunately the names of the six soldiers were not recorded. Years later with the help of Ertl, we unsuccessfully searched for the identity of these men in the military headquarters. The names of these six anonymous heroes have been lost, but their historic ascent has not been forgotten.

In 1945, Prem published the article “Climbing in the Bolivian Andes” in the American Alpine Journal (pages 328-332). This included previously unpublished photos of the climb. De la Motte saved this article, and kept a copy of his own account from the “Alpine Notes” (pages 80-81, vol.56, 1945-1948). These writings allow us to marvel the extraordinary achievements of “Operation Sajama”, an expedition that was carried out purely for the love of climbing, with only rudimentary climbing equipment and without any financial support.
It is important also to mention Colonel Alcocer, a Bolivian commander of the Destacamento Andino No. 1 based in Oruro, who was quick to assist all of the early expeditions. Alcocer made it his mission to help foreign expeditions. Ertl used Alcocer's friendship and connections to motivate Bolivian military men into climbing. On the 11th of July 1952, several officials from the "Andino" regiment left La Paz for Sajama. Among them were Lt. Alfonso Villalpando and Lt. Lucio Arce, soldiers anxious to discover the world of Andinism.

PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS OF THE CORDILLERA APOLOBAMBA

Climbing – Normal Routes

Climate and Climbing Season

Bolivia has traditionally had one of the most stable weather patterns of any climbing region in the world, with a long dry season between April and October. Most of the snowfall generally occurs in the monsoon months between November and March. However, since 1998 conditions have become more unpredictable and unstable. Unseasonable storms have produced hazardous climbing conditions and frequent avalanches. Glacial regression has been particularly pronounced and there has also been an increase in the formation of seracs, particularly in the Apolobamba and Cordillera Real ranges. For more info visit, www.geo.umas.edu/climate/bolivia.com - www.peakware.com/mountains/bolivia

BOLIVIAN MAPS

I have provided references to Bolivian maps in several chapters. The most reliable maps are those of the IGM, which cover most regions of the country.

Scale 1:50.000
The most precise is World Geodesic System WGS 84, Squares for UTM application with area signalization on each map. Degrees, minute system, conventional signs and reference of annual magnetic variation.

Scale 1:100.000
Prepared and published by the Defense Mapping Agency’s Hydrographic/ Topographic Center in Washington, D.C. Excellent editions. With GPS.

Scale 1: 25.000
Also published in the USA by Joint Operations Graphic. Used in mountains and covers the entire Bolivian territory. Assigned to aviation and applicable to GPS UTM and degrees.

Climbing apolobamba – Alain Mesili a living legend – mountaineering books - Frome the Andes to Amazinia – Maps of Trekking – Andean cartographies - Web Site about Bolivia
Curriculum Vitae by Alain Mesili - Bibliography

Mountanering Books

Alain Mesili: The Andes of Bolivia, diagrams Apolobamba
Yossi Brain: Bolivia A Climbing Guide, diagrams Apolobamba
IGM: Sheet 1:100.000 3041
John Biggar: Les Andes See Diagrams Apolobamba

Travel Books