Curriculum Vitae
 

 

Alain Mesili

Email: tourisme@alain-mesili.com - amesili@hotmail.com

Website: http://www.andes-mesili.com

 

Personal Data:

Date of Birth February 24th 1949 in Paris, France
Studies  
Schooling and College University of the Sorbone, Paris - France
Literature and Modern History
Professional Studies Training as a Guide and in Rescue
Ecole Nationale de Ski et Alpinisme (E.N.S.A), France

Experience in general and Alp Mountaineering

1962

Practice in alpine climbing of great magnitude in the French alps: Grandes Jorasses, Les Drus west face and Nord-Grand Capucin. Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Midi, Aiguilles du Diable, Les Ecrins, etc. At least one hundred other minor alpine peaks were ascended in the region.

I have climbed with the most important climbers in my generation, among whom are: Nicolas jaeger, Georges Bettambourg, Anselme Baud, Jean Marc Boivin, Jean and Michel Affanassief, Patrick Cordier, Jean Jeacques Ricoire, Walter Bonatti, Cosimo Zappelli, Giuseppe Ferrari, Angelo Gelmi, etc
1964-1968 Worked as a porter of the French Alpine Club (CAF), for the alpine refuges of the alps in Chamonix (Haute Savoie) France.
1969 Traveled to Patagonia where I explored the continental ice shelf and the Fitz Roy Masif as well as Cerro Torre, Cerro Polene, Cerro Pier Giorgio during three months. Later that year I climbed in Bolivia's Cordillera Real, Sajama Illampu, Laramcota as well as some others. During this time I opened new routes on Illampu, Chearoco, Condoriri and Illimani.
1970 Again to Patagonia for my third ascent of Fitz Roy's west face. Later this year I accepted a post as an instructor in the "Federacion de Ski y Andinismo de Bolivia" and thus decided to live in Bolivia. Later this same year I opened many new routes along with Ernesto Sanchez, a young Bolivian climber. This year participated in numerous French, Spanish, German, British, and Italian expeditions.
1971 This year marked my first trek of the Atacama Desert (Chile) on foot in 22 days. Later I opened new routes in the Illampu macif along the North Face, the Gorra de Hielo, Emma Maria and Ancohuma.
1972 Worked as a reporter in Bolivia, Peru and Argentina. Later I again explored the Patagonian glaciers, the Chilean Fjords and the Cordillera de Darwin. I traveled various months through the Chilean Patagonia for geographic exploration. That same year I again opened new routes in the Bolivian, Peruvian, Ecuadorian and Colombian Andes.
1973 This year was dedicated to various social and political reporting in Chile, Argentina and Central America.
1973-1976 Worked as a mountaineering instructor in Peru and Bolivia (Huaraz-La Paz).
1976-1977 Began activities as a Guide in the field of adventure tourism while opening new routes suitable to tourism in: Sud Lipez (Chiguana-Laguna Verde (on foot) and the region of San Pedro de Atacama. Later that year I traversed the whole of the Cordillera Real and the Sorata to Coroico treks which today are quite famous. Following these treks I traveled the Cordillera Apolobamba, again as an integral expedition followed by Quimsa Cruz.
1977-1984 worked as an adventure and Mountaineering guide for private chartered expeditions as well as for clients from renowned agencies in France, the U.S., England. Travels were made through the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuach. This year continued with the opening of new routes in all the Andean macifs of Bolivia. This year I published my first book "La Cordillera Real de Los Andes", Edited by the Editorial Los Amigos. This book today remains a classic in Bolivian mountaineering literature.
1979-1980 This year was spent training guides in the national school of ski and alpinism (ENSA) in Chamonix, France.
1981 My first crossing of the Salar de Uyuni Salt flat on foot with Pierre Vernay of the Tawa agency.
1982 Becomes a titled guide and participates in the writing of the French book "Bolivia 3, Expedicion de la revista Montagne-Magazin.
1983

This year was spent participating in the exploration of the Great Paititi which today is named "Parque Nacional Madidi", with the German expedition Bolivien-Amazon. Later I searched for gold in the Apolo region of Tabakuni and explored the Yata, Madre de Dios, Benicito, Rio Heath, Rio Beni rivers. Further Exploration of the Madidi National Park.

1984 Explored the Bolivian Amazons in the regions of Beni and Pando. Following were the opening of new trek circuits in the Cordillera de Cucuy and Santa Marta of Colombia. The same opening of new trek was done for the continental shelf area of Argentina and Chile. During this time I climbed the highest summits in Latin America on the Chilean Fjords: Ojos del Salado, by the Argentine side and Aconcagua by the Southern Face (The French Route).
1999

Traveled throughout the Ixiamas-Rio Heath, Rio Colorado Regions of Bolivia and lived one year with the Chacobo Indigenous Tribe in the Yata river of Beni, Bolivia. The region was Riberalta, close to Santa Ana de Yacuma.

2002

Pubished "Los Andes de Bolivia; Guia de Escaladas", an updated edition with new routes and photographic material. Edited by Producciones CIMA A new edition of the book in English "The Andes of Bolivia; Adventure and Climbing Guide" Will be published in January of 2004.

THE PRINCIPAL FIRST ASCENTS BY ALAIN MESILI IN BOLIVIA

ILLAMPU MASSIF 6.362m/20,932 ft

1- Rutas de las torres/ Southwest Ridge. Altitude difference: 980m. Grade: D+/USA AI 5, Rock: 5.4 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili, Mario Clemente. Grade: Date: May, 1976

2- Ruta Corredor/ gully South West Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 5 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Sebastian Whitelock, Bruno Kramer, Olga Pratt, Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: September, 1978

Illampu East face–(Buttress: 5,850m/19,188 ft - 6,000m/19,680 ft)

3- Buttress I , Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: TD/ TD+/ USA : AI 5, Rock: 5.6, 5.7 - Slope angle: 60°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: May 1973

4- Buttress 2, Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/ED/ USA : AI 5, W1 Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili. Date: August 1975


5. Buttress III, “Directisima”. Altitude difference: 700m. Grade: TD+/ USA: Rock: 5.7, 5.9. - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: May/ June 1973.

Pyramid Huayna Illampu 5.956m /19,535 ft

6. South East Face/ Central Couloir) Altitude difference: 800m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: April/May 1973.

Illampu Pyramid South face
7. Mesili – Sánchez Route Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4, AI 5 Rock: 5.7 Slope angle: 60°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sanchez Alain Mesili. Date: May 1973

 

Schulze Peak 5,943 m/19,493 ft

8 - Ruta Sanchez – Mesili/ South face Lago Glaciar Side.Altitude difference: 700m Grade: TD/USA: AI 2 Rock: 5.6, 5.7 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: April/ May, 1973

9- Ruta Corredor/ North, North face Aguas Caliente Side. Altitude difference: 550m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 5, Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/75° - First ascent: Henry Berghe, Alain Mesili. Date: October 1970

10- Mesili - Sanchez pass Illampu / Aguja Yacuma - East Ridge , 5,780m/18,958 ft Altitude difference: 650m. South Face. Grade: TD/USA: AI 3. Ice Couloir Rock: 5.5, 5.7 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili and Ernesto Sanchez. Date: October, 1972

 

PICO DEL NORTE 6.050m /19,844 ft

1- Buttress Bettembourg Altitude Difference: 1080m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.6. - Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: G. Bettambourg, A. Mesili, B. Chaud. Date: 1982

2- Gully Route/ North East Altitude Difference: 980m Grade: D+/USA: AI 3 - Slope angle: 65°/75° - First ascent Rcardo Arias, Juan Barthelemy, Alain Mesili, Pierre Grange, Ronald Khern. Date: 1972

3- Pico del Norte/ Normal Route , Altitude difference: 800m. Grade: AD/USA: AI 2 - Slope angle 50°/ 60° - First: solo Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1974

4- Pilar/ Ridge/ South West Aguas Calientes Side. Altitude difference: 680m Grade: D+/ TD/USA: AI 5, Rock: 5.4, 5.6 - Slope angle: 60°/ 80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili, Jean Wolf, Sebastian Hoskhy. Date: 1975.

5- Laramcota West face Altitude difference: 1100m. Grade: D+/TD/USA: AI 5 rock: 5.3, 5.4 – Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: Roger Ganoy, Alain Mesili. Date: September 1984.

 

Gorra de Hielo 5.700m /18,696 ft

1- South Face Altitude difference 480m. Grade: AD+/USA: AI 3. Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili, Ricardo Olmos Date: 1970

 

Emma Maria 5.531m /18,745 ft

1- Buttress East / East Face Altitude difference: 600m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 5. Rock: 5.4, 5.7 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Chris Hutson, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1983

 

PK 24 5.432m /17,816 ft

1- East Route Altitude difference: 600m Grade: TD/ ED/USA: W1, Rock: 5.9 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Chris Hutson, Alain Mesili. Date: September, 1983

 

ANCOHUMA MASSIF 6,427m/21,080 ft

1- South West face/ Direct Route Altitude difference: 700m Grade: AD/USA: AI 2 - Slope angle: 55°/ 65° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias Alain Mesili. Date: September1970

2- Northeast Route / Pillar East Altitude difference: 700m First. Grade: TD/ USA AI 4 Rock: 5.7, 5.8 - Slope angle: 80° - ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1970

 

Cunotahua II 5,885m/19,302 ft

3- North East Face Altitude difference: 680m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: Will Zegrash, Alain Mesili. Date: 1977

 

Yacuma III 5,630m/18,466 ft

4- South Face Altitude difference: 700m. Grade: D+/USA: AI 4 Rock: 5.5 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent E. Sánchez, A. Mesili, G. Dufour Date: 1969

 

Hancopiti II 5.818m /19,083 ft

5- Southeast Face Altitude difference: 900m Grade: D/USA: AI 3 - Slope angle: 65° - First ascent: H. Smythe, A. Mesili, R. Rouad Date: 1971

 

Cheacollo 6,137m/20,129 ft

6- Southeast Face Altitude difference: 1000m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. - Slope angle 70° -First ascent (?) H. Berhe A. Mesili. Date: 1969

 

Nevado Mamankota 5,650m/18,532 ft

7- South West Ridge Altitude difference: 600m Grade: D+/USA: AI 2, Rock 5.5 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent H. Berhe, A Mesili, Ronald Khern. Date: 1974

 

CHACHACOMANI MASSIF 6.074m /19,922 ft

NORTH PEAK 5,671m/18,600 ft
1- Triangulo 5,671m/18,600 ft (Punta Norte) Southwest Face Altitude difference: 750m – Slope angle: 70° - Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - First ascent: Daniel Martenelli, Alain Mesili. Date: April, 1975

 

Las Tres Marias 5.400m /17,712 ft

2- Central Peak / Mesili – Bosch Route Altitude difference: 550m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. Rock: 5.5, 5.7 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Herman Bosch, Alain Mesili Date: October, 1973

3- Southeast Summit Altitude difference: 490m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.5 - First ascent: Herman Bosch, Alain Mesili. Date: October, 1973

 

Jankho Laya 5.545m /18,187 ft

1- South Face French Route Altitude difference: 600m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3, AI 4 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent (Samme Date): 1. Faussurier, P Mur 2. Christian Jacquier Date: 1978

 

CONDORIRI 5,546m/ 18,190 ft - CONDORIRI GROUP

1- South Face “Cabeza de Condor” Altitude difference: 550m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. Rock: 5.4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent: Angelo Gelmi, José Ferrari, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1973


Ventinani 5.540m/18,171 ft

2- South face . Altitude difference: 430m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 65°/ 70°- First ascent: Anselme Baud, Frederick Pimienta, Alain Mesili. Date: 1973

 

Wyoming 5.380m /17,646 ft

3- Canaleta del Angel Mesili Route. Altitude difference: 460m. Grade: TD1/USA: W1Rock: 5.6 - Slope angle: 75°/90° - First ascent Solo: Alain Mesili Date: 15 de September de 1976.

 

A la Derecha 5.330m /17,482 ft

4- Gully Mesili Altitude difference: 470m Grade: TD+/ USA : AI5 Rock: 5.7 - Slope angle :70°/80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili in Solo. Date: September 1976

 

Pequeño Alpamayo 5.370m /17,613 ft

5- South face Altitude difference: 160m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Jean Affanassief, Alain Mesili, José Ferrari. Date: April, 1971

 

HUAYNA POTOSI MASSIF 6.088m/19,968 ft

Pico Sur/ South north

1- French Route East / Face, Pico Sur Altitude difference: 280m Grade: AD/ USA : AI 2 - Slope angle: 50°/ 65° - First ascent: Thierry Cardon, Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: August 1974

2- Ruta del Triangulo West Face Altitude difference: 780m Grade: TD+/ USA : W1 Rock: 5.8, 5.9 - Slope angle: 75° - First ascent: Hans Haztler, Alain Mesili Date: 1971 2nd Miguel Alonzo, Alain Mesili. Date: 1983

 

Pico Norte/ North Peak

3- West Face - Ruta de Lyon Altitude difference 900m Grade: TD/USA: AI 5 - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Frederick Faure, George Challeat, Yves Levy, Alain Mesili. Date: September 1978

4- West Face Direct Route. Altitude difference: 900m Grade: TD/USA: AI5 - First ascent: F. Faure, G. Challeat Y. Levy, Alain Mesili. Date: 1978.

5- Couloir North East Altitude difference: 1000m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4, W1. Rock: 5.5, 5.7 - Slope angle: 75°/ 85° - First ascent: Paul Lafargue, Henri Doisnau, Alain Mesili, William Dorf. Date: 1979

6- Pico Mesili East Peak Altitude difference: 600m Grade: TD/USA: AI 3, AI 4. - Slope angle: 70° - First Solo: Alain Mesili Grade: Date: May, 1978

Pico Milluni, 5.400m/17,712 ft

7- South Face/ couloir central Altitude Difference: 450m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: 1974

 

TIQUIMANI 5.519m/18,102 ft

1- Southeast Face/ Ruta Francesa Altitude difference, 1400m Grade: TD+/ W1 Rock: 5.6, 5.7 – Slope angle: 75°/ 85° - First ascent: Raymon Lebon, Alain Mesili. Date: May, 1974

2- South Face/ Ruta Paris - La Paz Altitude difference: 1000m Grade TD+/ USA : W1 Rock: 5.7 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1983

 

ILLIMANI 6.462m /21,195 ft

1- Sánchez–Mesili Traverse to ridge North Peak / ridge Souh Peak First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1972.

2- Khoya Khoyu/ Pyramid Route Altitude difference 400m+ ridge North Peak, altitud difference 2 nd part: 350m: Grade: D+/USA: AI 2, AI 3- Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1972.

 

South Face

3- Piramide de los Dioses. Altitude difference: 650m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4. Rock: 5.8 - slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Bruce Card, Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1978

4- Jacquier/ Mesili Route . Altitude Difference: 1300m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent: Christian Jacquier, Alain Mesili. Date: May, 1978.

5- Mesili/Jeager Route . Altitude difference: 780m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4. Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Nicolas Jeager, Alain Mesili. Date: September, 1972.

6- French Route , Gully East . Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/USA: AI - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Frederic Pimienta, Alain Mesili. Date: 1982.

 

MURURATA 5.775m /18,942 ft

1- Italo- Francesa route/ South Ridge. Altitude difference: 900m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3, 5.5 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Anselme Baud, Angelo Gelmi, José Ferrari, Thierry Cardon, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1974

2- East Route , Altitude difference: 800m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4 - Slope angle: 75°- First ascent Solo: Alain Mesili. Date: October, 1977.

 

SAJAMA 6.542m /21,457 ft

1- “La Caldera” North East Couloir Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: ED+/ USA : W1 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Joan Opermaher, Alain Mesili. Antonio Delgado Sarí, Carlos Gugliano. Date: June 1971. 2nd ascent: Alain Mesili, Giussepe Calotti. Date: Octuber, 1987.

2- East Face Route Altitude Difference: 1380m Grade: TD+/ USA : AI 4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent (?) Eleodoro Sánchez, Mario Sánjines, Stefan Colombani, Alain Mesili. Date: March, 1972

References in the International Press regarding Alain Mesili

NewsPapers: Le Monde, France Soir (France), Presencia, El Diario, La Prensa, La Razon (Bolivia)

Magazines: Vertical, Montagne-Magazine (France), Ski & Alpinismo (ENSA's official magazine), Desnivel (Spain), High Mountain , Alpine Journal England), American Alpine Journal (U.S.)

WebSearches: Search Google.com, Yahoo.com, Altavista.com , and Bonzi.com for the key words Alain Mesili

Books: More than thirty books and encyclopedias make reference to Alain Mesili. Among them are: Anuarios del C.A.I. (Italy), The High Andes by John Biggar, Bolivia a Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain, La Cordillera de los Andes de Boliva by Neate Hill, Mountaineering in the Andes by Michael R. Keelsey, Guide to the World's Mountains by Lonely Planet, South American Handbook, Royal Geographic Society etc.

Sporting Records: 61 Mountaineering and Amazonic Expeditions as of 2003

Over 150 new alpine climbing routes in the Bolivian Andes

Records in the climbing of mountains greater than 6000 meters over sea level.

14 Expeditions in: Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia, Peru, Ecuador, Chile, Colombia and Venezuela

 

Projects: Photography book dedicated to the Andes and its campesino communities.

Photography and Text book "Tinku, Ultimos Guerreros Andinos" to be edited by Producciones CIMA

"Paititi, El Mundo Perdido" to be edited in 2004

 
Climbing
The Principal First Ascents by Alain Mesili in Bolivia
Climbing Routes and Mountain Maps
Bibliography