ALTIPLANO

The highland plateau (Altiplano), also known as the roof of the New World or the "Bolivian Tibet" is straddled between the western and eastern mountain chains of the Bolivian Andes. It stretches from north to south the entire length of the country and sits at an average altitude of 3800m. It is a place of stark beauty and comparable in grandeur to the Gobi desert, Ladakh and Sikkim . In the southern region of the Altiplano, at an altitude of 3,650m is found the world's largest salt lake, Salar de Uyuni, which covers an area of 12,000-sq. km. and is the largest reserve of lithium on the planet. Along the western reaches of the Altiplano lies a volcanic chain stretching 600 km. and known as the Cordillera Occidental ( Western Mountains ). This mountain chain forms a veritable wall, separating the Altiplano from the Atacama desert (the world's driest desert) in Chile . The principal peaks in this area are Pomerape and Parinacota (6,300m.), Sajama (6,520m.), Acotango (6,050m.), Capureta (5,930m.), Cabarey (5,510m.), Sillalhay (5,995m.) and Napa (5,140m.). The southern extension of the Cordillera Occidental is called Cordillera Sud Lipez, a lunar-like landscape of extreme harshness whose principal peaks are: Irruputungo (5,165m.), Paruma (5,760m.), Ollagüe (5,869m.), Tapacullima (5,770m.), Aral (5,580m.), San Pablo (5,810m.), Sanaquera (5,685m.), Lincor (5,560m.), Punata (5,890m.), Jurique (5,110m.), Lincancabur (5,930m.).

CORDILLERA REAL (ROYAL MOUNTAIN CHAIN)

The Austrian climbers who first discovered this mountain chain during their exploration of the Illampu massif described it as “Der Himalay der Neuen Welt,” or “the Himalayas of the New World ”. To Americans it is one of the last unexplored regions in the world and for the French climbers Yves Pollet-Villard, J.L. Georges, C. Rey, G. Bettambourg, A. Baud, N. Jeager, it is the "Adventure of the Century".

“We are the ones who ignore them” a high-ranking official in the Bolivian Army told me, “Because we are not prepared to face our own geographical reality. It is not that we are unaware of the importance of the Cordillera Real and the other mountains. Rather, members of our army believe ancient myths and legends about the dangers of crossing the borders of perennial snow. They have a strong respect for the mountains and will not go beyond certain points. When it is necessary for them to make such travels, however, they do so with much fear and reverence for the mountain spirits”. “Consequently, when we arrive at the foot of the mountains, we view them with respect and edge cautiously around them. In general, those soldiers who have lived for many years near the mountains respect the powers of the cordillera as well as the legends. For these reasons, I don't know a single soldier who is enthusiastic about climbing the mountains”.

The Cordillera Real forms the towering eastern wall of the Altiplano that separates it from the western jungles or Yungas. From the summit of the Cordillera Real mountains, there is a vertiginous drop where glaciers seem to have catapulted into a void to form the deep, jade-green valleys of the Yungas. The contrast to the barren Altiplano could not be more pronounced as all the rivers descend cavalcading into the verdant valleys, to eventually meet the great Amazon River and their final destination in the Atlantic Ocean . To the northeast of the Cordillera Real lies the more isolated Cordillera Apolobama and to the south the Cordillera Quimza Cruz (Three Crosses), otherwise known as the " Chamonix of the Andes " because of it's extensive rock climbing potential .

PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS OF THE CORDILLERA APOLOBAMBA AND CORDILLERA REAL

Climbing – Normal Routes

Climate and Climbing Season

Bolivia has traditionally had one of the most stable weather patterns of any climbing region in the world, with a long dry season between April and October. Most of the snowfall generally occurs in the monsoon months between November and March. However, since 1998 conditions have become more unpredictable and unstable. Unseasonable storms have produced hazardous climbing conditions and frequent avalanches. Glacial regression has been particularly pronounced and there has also been an increase in the formation of seracs, particularly in the Apolobamba and Cordillera Real ranges. For more info visit, www.geo.umas.edu/climate/bolivia.com - www.peakware.com/mountains/bolivia

BOLIVIAN MAPS

I have provided references to Bolivian maps in several chapters. The most reliable maps are those of the IGM, which cover most regions of the country.

Scale 1:50.000
The most precise is World Geodesic System WGS 84, Squares for UTM application with area signalization on each map. Degrees, minute system, conventional signs and reference of annual magnetic variation.

Scale 1:100.000
Prepared and published by the Defense Mapping Agency’s Hydrographic/ Topographic Center in Washington, D.C. Excellent editions. With GPS.

Scale 1: 25.000
Also published in the USA by Joint Operations Graphic. Used in mountains and covers the entire Bolivian territory. Assigned to aviation and applicable to GPS UTM and degrees.

Climbing apolobamba – Alain Mesili a living legend – mountaineering books - Frome the Andes to Amazinia – Maps of Trekking – Andean cartographies - Web Site about Bolivia
Curriculum Vitae by Alain Mesili - Bibliography

Literature

Alain Mesili: The Andes of Bolivia, diagrams Apolobamba
Yossi Brain: Bolivia A Climbing Guide, diagrams Apolobamba
IGM: Sheet 1:100.000 3041
John Biggar: Les Andes See Diagrams Apolobamba