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THE PRINCIPAL FIRST ASCENTS BY ALAIN MESILI IN BOLIVIA

 

 

ILLAMPU MASSIF 6.362m/20,932 ft

1- Rutas de las torres/ Southwest Ridge. Altitude difference: 980m. Grade: D+/USA AI 5, Rock: 5.4 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili, Mario Clemente. Grade: Date: May, 1976

2- Ruta Corredor/ gully South West Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 5 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Sebastian Whitelock, Bruno Kramer, Olga Pratt, Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: September, 1978

Illampu East face–(Buttress: 5,850m/19,188 ft - 6,000m/19,680 ft)

3- Buttress I , Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: TD/ TD+/ USA : AI 5, Rock: 5.6, 5.7 - Slope angle: 60°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: May 1973

4- Buttress 2, Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/ED/ USA : AI 5, W1 Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili. Date: August 1975


5. Buttress III, “Directisima”. Altitude difference: 700m. Grade: TD+/ USA: Rock: 5.7, 5.9. - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: May/ June 1973.

Pyramid Huayna Illampu 5.956m /19,535 ft

6. South East Face/ Central Couloir) Altitude difference: 800m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: April/May 1973.

Illampu Pyramid South face

7. Mesili – Sánchez Route Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4, AI 5 Rock: 5.7 Slope angle: 60°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sanchez Alain Mesili. Date: May 1973

 

 

Schulze Peak 5,943 m/19,493 ft

8 - Ruta Sanchez – Mesili/ South face Lago Glaciar Side.Altitude difference: 700m Grade: TD/USA: AI 2 Rock: 5.6, 5.7 - Slope angle: 70°/80° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: April/ May, 1973

9- Ruta Corredor/ North, North face Aguas Caliente Side. Altitude difference: 550m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 5, Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/75° - First ascent: Henry Berghe, Alain Mesili. Date: October 1970

10- Mesili - Sanchez pass Illampu / Aguja Yacuma - East Ridge , 5,780m/18,958 ft Altitude difference: 650m. South Face. Grade: TD/USA: AI 3. Ice Couloir Rock: 5.5, 5.7 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili and Ernesto Sanchez. Date: October, 1972

 

 

PICO DEL NORTE 6.050m /19,844 ft

1- Buttress Bettembourg Altitude Difference: 1080m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.6. - Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: G. Bettambourg, A. Mesili, B. Chaud. Date: 1982

2- Gully Route/ North East Altitude Difference: 980m Grade: D+/USA: AI 3 - Slope angle: 65°/75° - First ascent Rcardo Arias, Juan Barthelemy, Alain Mesili, Pierre Grange, Ronald Khern. Date: 1972

3- Pico del Norte/ Normal Route , Altitude difference: 800m. Grade: AD/USA: AI 2 - Slope angle 50°/ 60° - First: solo Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1974

4- Pilar/ Ridge/ South West Aguas Calientes Side. Altitude difference: 680m Grade: D+/ TD/USA: AI 5, Rock: 5.4, 5.6 - Slope angle: 60°/ 80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili, Jean Wolf, Sebastian Hoskhy. Date: 1975.

5- Laramcota West face Altitude difference: 1100m. Grade: D+/TD/USA: AI 5 rock: 5.3, 5.4 – Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: Roger Ganoy, Alain Mesili. Date: September 1984.

Gorra de Hielo 5.700m /18,696 ft

1- South Face Altitude difference 480m. Grade: AD+/USA: AI 3. Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili, Ricardo Olmos Date: 1970

Emma Maria 5.531m /18,745 ft

1- Buttress East / East Face Altitude difference: 600m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 5. Rock: 5.4, 5.7 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Chris Hutson, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1983

PK 24 5.432m /17,816 ft

1- East Route Altitude difference: 600m Grade: TD/ ED/USA: W1, Rock: 5.9 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Chris Hutson, Alain Mesili. Date: September, 1983

 

 

ANCOHUMA MASSIF 6,427m/21,080 ft

1- South West face/ Direct Route Altitude difference: 700m Grade: AD/USA: AI 2 - Slope angle: 55°/ 65° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias Alain Mesili. Date: September1970

2- Northeast Route / Pillar East Altitude difference: 700m First. Grade: TD/ USA AI 4 Rock: 5.7, 5.8 - Slope angle: 80° - ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1970

Cunotahua II 5,885m/19,302 ft

 

3- North East Face Altitude difference: 680m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 60°/70° - First ascent: Will Zegrash, Alain Mesili. Date: 1977

Yacuma III 5,630m/18,466 ft

4- South Face Altitude difference: 700m. Grade: D+/USA: AI 4 Rock: 5.5 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent E. Sánchez, A. Mesili, G. Dufour Date: 1969

Hancopiti II 5.818m /19,083 ft

5- Southeast Face Altitude difference: 900m Grade: D/USA: AI 3 - Slope angle: 65° - First ascent: H. Smythe, A. Mesili, R. Rouad Date: 1971

Cheacollo 6,137m/20,129 ft

6- Southeast Face Altitude difference: 1000m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. - Slope angle 70° -First ascent (?) H. Berhe A. Mesili. Date: 1969

Nevado Mamankota 5,650m/18,532 ft

7- South West Ridge Altitude difference: 600m Grade: D+/USA: AI 2, Rock 5.5 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent H. Berhe, A Mesili, Ronald Khern. Date: 1974

 

 

CHACHACOMANI MASSIF 6.074m /19,922 ft

NORTH PEAK 5,671m/18,600 ft
1- Triangulo 5,671m/18,600 ft (Punta Norte) Southwest Face Altitude difference: 750m – Slope angle: 70° - Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - First ascent: Daniel Martenelli, Alain Mesili. Date: April, 1975

Las Tres Marias 5.400m /17,712 ft

2- Central Peak / Mesili – Bosch Route Altitude difference: 550m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. Rock: 5.5, 5.7 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Herman Bosch, Alain Mesili Date: October, 1973

3- Southeast Summit Altitude difference: 490m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 Rock: 5.5 - First ascent: Herman Bosch, Alain Mesili. Date: October, 1973

Jankho Laya 5.545m /18,187 ft

1- South Face French Route Altitude difference: 600m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3, AI 4 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent (Samme Date): 1. Faussurier, P Mur 2. Christian Jacquier Date: 1978

 

 

CONDORIRI 5,546m/ 18,190 ft - CONDORIRI GROUP

1- South Face “Cabeza de Condor” Altitude difference: 550m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3. Rock: 5.4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent: Angelo Gelmi, José Ferrari, Alain Mesili Date: September, 1973


Ventinani 5.540m/18,171 ft

2- South face . Altitude difference: 430m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 65°/ 70°- First ascent: Anselme Baud, Frederick Pimienta, Alain Mesili. Date: 1973

Wyoming 5.380m /17,646 ft

3- Canaleta del Angel Mesili Route. Altitude difference: 460m. Grade: TD1/USA: W1Rock: 5.6 - Slope angle: 75°/90° - First ascent Solo: Alain Mesili Date: 15 de September de 1976.

A la Derecha 5.330m /17,482 ft

4- Gully Mesili Altitude difference: 470m Grade: TD+/ USA : AI5 Rock: 5.7 - Slope angle :70°/80° - First ascent: Alain Mesili in Solo. Date: September 1976

Pequeño Alpamayo 5.370m /17,613 ft

5- South face Altitude difference: 160m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 70° - First ascent: Jean Affanassief, Alain Mesili, José Ferrari. Date: April, 1971

 

 

HUAYNA POTOSI MASSIF 6.088m/19,968 ft

Pico Sur/ South north

1- French Route East / Face, Pico Sur Altitude difference: 280m Grade: AD/ USA : AI 2 - Slope angle: 50°/ 65° - First ascent: Thierry Cardon, Alain Mesili. Grade: Date: August 1974

2- Ruta del Triangulo West Face Altitude difference: 780m Grade: TD+/ USA : W1 Rock: 5.8, 5.9 - Slope angle: 75° - First ascent: Hans Haztler, Alain Mesili Date: 1971 2nd Miguel Alonzo, Alain Mesili. Date: 1983

Pico Norte/ North Peak

3- West Face - Ruta de Lyon Altitude difference 900m Grade: TD/USA: AI 5 - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Frederick Faure, George Challeat, Yves Levy, Alain Mesili. Date: September 1978

4- West Face Direct Route. Altitude difference: 900m Grade: TD/USA: AI5 - First ascent: F. Faure, G. Challeat Y. Levy, Alain Mesili. Date: 1978.

5- Couloir North East Altitude difference: 1000m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4, W1. Rock: 5.5, 5.7 - Slope angle: 75°/ 85° - First ascent: Paul Lafargue, Henri Doisnau, Alain Mesili, William Dorf. Date: 1979

6- Pico Mesili East Peak Altitude difference: 600m Grade: TD/USA: AI 3, AI 4. - Slope angle: 70° - First Solo: Alain Mesili Grade: Date: May, 1978

Pico Milluni, 5.400m/17,712 ft

7- South Face/ couloir central Altitude Difference: 450m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: 1974

 

 

TIQUIMANI 5.519m/18,102 ft

1- Southeast Face/ Ruta Francesa Altitude difference, 1400m Grade: TD+/ W1 Rock: 5.6, 5.7 – Slope angle: 75°/ 85° - First ascent: Raymon Lebon, Alain Mesili. Date: May, 1974

2- South Face/ Ruta Paris - La Paz Altitude difference: 1000m Grade TD+/ USA : W1 Rock: 5.7 – Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Ricardo Arias, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1983

 

 

ILLIMANI 6.462m /21,195 ft

1- Sánchez–Mesili Traverse to ridge North Peak / ridge Souh Peak First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1972.

2- Khoya Khoyu/ Pyramid Route Altitude difference 400m+ ridge North Peak, altitud difference 2 nd part: 350m: Grade: D+/USA: AI 2, AI 3- Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Ernesto Sánchez Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1972.

South Face

3- Piramide de los Dioses. Altitude difference: 650m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4. Rock: 5.8 - slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Bruce Card, Alain Mesili. Date: July, 1978

4- Jacquier/ Mesili Route . Altitude Difference: 1300m. Grade: D+/ USA : AI 4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent: Christian Jacquier, Alain Mesili. Date: May, 1978.

5- Mesili/Jeager Route . Altitude difference: 780m. Grade: TD/USA: AI 4. Rock: 5.4, 5.5 - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Nicolas Jeager, Alain Mesili. Date: September, 1972.

6- French Route , Gully East . Altitude difference: 1000m. Grade: TD/USA: AI - Slope angle: 70°/ 80° - First ascent: Frederic Pimienta, Alain Mesili. Date: 1982.

 

 

MURURATA 5.775m /18,942 ft

1- Italo- Francesa route/ South Ridge. Altitude difference: 900m Grade: D+/ USA : AI 3, 5.5 - Slope angle: 60°/ 70° - First ascent: Anselme Baud, Angelo Gelmi, José Ferrari, Thierry Cardon, Alain Mesili. Date: August, 1974

2- East Route , Altitude difference: 800m Grade: TD/USA: AI 4 - Slope angle: 75°- First ascent Solo: Alain Mesili. Date: October, 1977.

 

 

SAJAMA 6.542m /21,457 ft

1- “La Caldera” North East Couloir Altitude difference: 900m. Grade: ED+/ USA : W1 - Slope angle: 80° - First ascent: Joan Opermaher, Alain Mesili. Antonio Delgado Sarí, Carlos Gugliano. Date: June 1971. 2nd ascent: Alain Mesili, Giussepe Calotti. Date: Octuber, 1987.

2- East Face Route Altitude Difference: 1380m Grade: TD+/ USA : AI 4 - Slope angle: 60°/ 75° - First ascent (?) Eleodoro Sánchez, Mario Sánjines, Stefan Colombani, Alain Mesili. Date: March, 1972

 
 

 

 

 
 

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