INTRODUCTION

This beautiful mountain chain, sometimes referred to as the Tres Cruces or Three Crosses, offers the most isolated climbing in the country. The northern regions of the Cordillera Quimza Cruz has very high quality rock structures, including solid clear and maroon granite (graniodorite). It is a paradise of difficult climbs with wall upon wall of excellent rock. Those who enjoy climbing in “El Capitán” in the Sierra Nevada or the “Drus” in the Alps will enjoy the Quimza Cruz region. The southern part is made up of a number of glaciated peaks, with altitudes varying between 5,300m/17,387 ft and 5,800m/19,024 ft. The area offers excellent opportunities for new routes.

The 1987 Bolivian German expedition (Bayreuther Anden Expedition of the German Alpine Club, 1987) provided quality information to the area. The Bolivian climbers from the expedition are not only alpinists but also professional guides. They include Juan Carlos Andia of C.E.A.C, José Carmalinghi, owner of Andean Summits climbing agency, José Miranda of the Condoriri agency, José and Javier Thealleche and Marco Olivares. Incomplete information from a 1969 Bavarian expedition and a 1968 Japanese expedition, which have both been mentioned in the “American Alpine Journal” are utilized in the preparation of this chapter. I will not provide extensive descriptions to climbs in the region as they are beyond the scope of this book. In his book, “Bolivia: A Climbing Guide”, Yossi Brain dedicates a chapter to the various peaks of Quimza Cruz, such as Korichuma or Inmaculado 5,500m/18,044 ft, Atoroma 5,640m/18,499 ft, Gigante Grande 5,748m/ 18,858 ft, Jacha Cuno Collo 5,800m/19,029 ft, Huayna Cuno Collo 5,640m/18,504 ft, San Luis 5,620m/18,438 ft.

In 1899 miners from La Paz under the guidance of the engineer Don Oswaldo Quetena searched for and found tin deposits in the Viloco zone, at the foot of the glaciers. The tin veins were found dispersed throughout the foothills near San Lorenzo, San Felipe and later all over the Caracoles and Chatamarca Valleys (the lake there bears the same name). These men were in fact the first climbers and during their explorations, ascended the icy ridges and high altitude glaciers. Don Oswaldo Quetena died tragically exploring a mountain ridge on Korichuma and with his death came the end of the first explorations and the search for a mountain pass to the rich mineral deposits.